Models > MER5765QAQ

MER5765QAQ Maytag Range

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Manuals & Guides for MER5765QAQ

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This is a factory-certified oven sensor kit with two harness adapters. Its purpose is to sense the temperature inside the oven. Replacing this part can fix an oven that is not reaching the proper temp...
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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Sold individually. This is a radiant surface element with a limiter, and it works in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to give heat to the surface directly above it, on cooking area stovetop.
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This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven. This bake element is for ranges. The bake element is at the bottom of the oven and supplies the heat for baking. Unplug the range or shut of...
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This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
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This is the replacement large surface element for your cooktop or range. It is approximately 10-inches in diameter and is 1200/2500 watts. The large surface element is installed under the cooktop and ...
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It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
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The top of this part is now black.
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This door hinge can be used for the left or right side. As per the manufacturer if the hinges have never been replaced on the appliance, they suggest to replace the door hinge receptacle kit.
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This part goes over top of the light bulb.
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for MER5765QAQ

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Touchpad does not respond
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Will not program
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Customer:
David from Westford, MA
Parts Used:
12001656
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
156 of 196 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Mark from Loxahatchee, FL
Parts Used:
W10823711
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Right rear burner went bad
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
144 of 163 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Shawn from Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Parts Used:
WPW10276482
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't get hot enough
First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.

After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place. ... Read more />
Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.

I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.

I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.

I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.

Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!

Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.
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