EST3102K (P1130627N K) Maytag Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Donna from Dallas, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10196405, WPW10196406
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drip bowls were burned and tacky
First I removed the old bowls and replaced them with the new.
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- Customer:
- John from Chester, VT
- Parts Used:
- WPW10196405, WPW10196406
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drip bowls needed to be replaced
took old bowls out, put new bowls in, took a coffee break
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- Customer:
- Linda from Atlanta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10196405, WPW10196406
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old drip pans stained
Replaced old drip pans with new ones - very easy - even a 68 yr old lady can do it!!
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- Customer:
- sylvia from ventnor city, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10196405, WPW10196406
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
We needed new drip pans and no one carried the model we needed
we removed the old pans after first removing the electric heating element and simply inserted tne new pans
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WP77001094
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The Baking element in the bottom of the stove apparently shorted out and partially melted
First I turned off the circuit breaker on the house electricity panel. I removed the two screws that held the element in place in the oven. There were two wires connected to the element by spade plugs that were free floating in a fiberglass pad. I reconnected the spade plugs and put the element back in place and put back in the two screws. This procedure had I known what I was doing could have been done with the stove in place and would take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. Having no experience at this, I had pulled the stove out into the room and also removed the back cover which turned out to be unnecessary. I put everything back in place and held my breath and turned on the circuit breaker. Voila! It worked!
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Decatur, GA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Burned terminal block and filter board
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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- Customer:
- Phillip from Pekin, IL
- Parts Used:
- 330031
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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- Customer:
- robert from chatham, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP74011278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
hard to get old one out
easy to put in
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- Customer:
- edward from hamburg, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP77001094
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element broke/burned out
un-screwed 2 scrws and pulled out the old one and pulled off the 2 wires put the new one on the floor of the oven and hooked-up the 2 wires and pushed it in the back wall and replaced the 2 screws! done maybe 5 minutes
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- Customer:
- erik from chester springs, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11121639
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The infinite switch controlling one of the range top burners failed.
1 - Turned off electricity to the cook top.
2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter.
3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top.
4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch.
5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which the infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base.
6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel.
7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one.
8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.
All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.
2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter.
3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top.
4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch.
5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which the infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base.
6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel.
7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one.
8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.
All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.
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- Customer:
- Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Parts Used:
- 4396923
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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- Customer:
- Deborah from Cumberland, RI
- Parts Used:
- WPY0061732
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the broiler element burnt out
first I unplugged the stove,took the screws out of the pan that holds the element to the stove, then unplugged the element.then I plugged in the new element, then screwed the screws into the pan that holds the element into the stove. it was very easy.
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- Customer:
- Cheryl from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP77001094
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven never came up to correct temp. Broiler did, so it had to be the bake element.
Turned off the power! Unscrewed the element (2 screws) pullled the wires out. Put the new part right in. Easy!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!
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- Customer:
- Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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- Customer:
- Roger from Pleasanton, CA
- Parts Used:
- R0706011
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rivet broke on the right side oven door hinge
Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201
After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.
Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.
Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.
After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.
Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.
Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.
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