Models > ABR142MBGH

ABR142MBGH Maytag Range

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Diagrams for ABR142MBGH

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This part includes one range leveling leg, sourced directly from the original manufacturer. The leveling leg is what supports the range and ensures it is sitting level, stable, and at the proper heigh...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Jul 3
$21.82
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This part helps your burner ignite and produce flame.
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$54.12
This door seal is fifty-three inches long. It is all black in color and is made of rubber. There are metallic clips sticking out of this seal at various points. These clips help to secure the seal to range doors.
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Sold individually.
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This screw is sold individually.
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$7.60
Sold Individually.
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This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The burner head the is main part of the burner assembly in your gas range and cooktop. The gas flows through the burner head and is lit by t...
No Longer Available
This screw is sold individually.
Special Order
$115.43
Sold individually.
Special Order
This broil pan is fourteen inches wide, and almost sixteen inches long. It is made of black porcelain.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for ABR142MBGH

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Will Not Start
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Oven not heating evenly
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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
Daniel from Needham, MA
Parts Used:
WP8523793
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
spark igniter was weak and not lighting the flame.
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel an d remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.
39 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Stella from Charlotte, TN
Parts Used:
WP7212P043-60
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
worn out door seal
removed old clips and remaining parts of old seal...new part already had clips attached, so just snapped them into holes in oven door.
31 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Bloomington, IL
Parts Used:
WP8523793
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Ignitor on main burner would not create a spark
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas pipin g was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.
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