Models > YAER6303MFS2

YAER6303MFS2 Maytag Range

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Diagrams for YAER6303MFS2

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This genuine OEM part is a replacement sensor for your oven. The sensor works with the control board to measure and regulate the temperature in your oven. If the sensor has become defective, the tempe...
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$20.95
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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Designed for 8-inch surface burners, this infinite control switch lets you turn the burner on and adjust its heat level. It works by sending voltage to the heating element based on the knob setting. A...
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The top of this part is now black.
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$50.42
Need a new oven rack? This chrome wire rack is built to handle the heat and give you a solid surface for baking, broiling, or roasting. It fits a variety of compatible ovens and is tough enough for ev...
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$65.23
The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the ...
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This part is used as a safety feature. If your range overheats this part will shut the range down.
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This part carries 5.2-6.6 amps.
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Sold individually.
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NOTE: The trim has been re-designed and no longer requires the screws. The dimples on the bottom hold them in place instead.
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for YAER6303MFS2

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Customer:
Wendy from Red Hook, NY
Parts Used:
WPW10208653
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
123 of 197 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Ruth from Oregon, IL
Parts Used:
WPW10181986
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
temperature not accurate after 3 1/2 years of happy usage
Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.

The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays s teady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.
143 of 269 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
RON from KAUFMAN, TX
Parts Used:
WP3148953
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The burner would keep heating after turning off the switch
Start by turning off the power to the range.
It was fairly easy to take the "Control Deck" off the top of the range by removing about 8 screws. I leaned the deck forward without removing any wires except a green ground that was held on by one of the screws.
There are two small screws under the switch knob holding the Infinite S witch to the panel. I removed these and let the switch hang on the wires. To avoid missplacing or crossing the wires... I moved one wire at a time to the new switch, then attached the switch to the panel and put it all back together.
Whole job was done in about 15 minutes
61 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
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