B38HN-2CXW-ON Magic Chef Range - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Richard from Carthage, NC
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Joseph from Decatur, GA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Burned terminal block and filter board
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- David from Wayne, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 7902P097-60, 3804F051-80
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Inner Oven Glass broken
I removed two retainer screws which released the outside panel.
Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets.
The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly.
Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.
Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets.
The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly.
Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ed from Anderson, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP7803P058-60, 7201P015-60
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven door spring broke and had to be replaced, oven light out and had to be replaced
The old gasket fell apart as I replaced the oven light and had to be replaced. That was very easy once I received the part. The spring broke on the oven door and had to be replaced. I initially tried to reach in from inside the pan drawer under the oven. That was impossible to reaach but it only took a few minutes to realize that I had to remove the side panel. I had to slide the range out from between the cabinets, but once that was done it was a relatively easy fix, without any special tools needed.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Anita from Hudson, CO
- Parts Used:
- WPY04000041
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Element burned out
Unplug Stove removed screws pulled out
element. Lifted off the wires with a pliers they slid
onto the element ends that were pointed up
was very easy.
element. Lifted off the wires with a pliers they slid
onto the element ends that were pointed up
was very easy.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Parts Used:
- 4396923
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Travis from Lexington, OK
- Parts Used:
- WP7803P058-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
spring broke on one side of door hinge
Pulled the stove out, removed the sides and attatched the new springs( replaced both while the stove was out). Worked like new and put the stove back.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Richard from Orange, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner was out but the burner coil worked on onother burner
Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Michael from N. Haverhill, NH
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
burner receptacle burned out
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Peter from FREDERICK, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Thomas from Van Nuys, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP7803P058-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Door Spring Broke
Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- william from aiken, SC
- Parts Used:
- 7201P015-60
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
replace light in oven
remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Grant from Hampton, NH
- Parts Used:
- 12001501
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace clock timer
Before I give procedure steps, please note the following observations that I had.
a)If AC power is plugged in and an electrical terminal touches the frame, the resulting arc may require that you reset the GFCI or the circuit breaker.
b)The clock failed to run until it was properly mounted (including the back cover in place).
c)Movement of wires can cause them to work loose at EITHER end of the wire.
d)Attempting to operate the clock, Start and Stop knobs may extremely difficult or otherwise ineffective unless it is properly mounted. Fully depressing these knobs / shafts is difficult.
The numbered steps below are how I would do it correctly based on what i learned.
1)I unplugged gas range power cord.
2)Re-positioned range to access the back without damaging the flexible gas supply line.
3)Removed the rear cover (#2 Philips) behind the timer.
4)Verified no voltages present
5)Judged that the front cover glass needed removal - removed timer knobs and front glass cover
6)Removed existing clock timer by using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver to depress the rear of each clip and pushing the time our the front. Old part has damaged gears and one axle end out of position.
7)Fed old timer back through the opening to the rear to assist with transfer of wires.
8)With the assistance of a helper, transferred the wires one at a time from the old to the new timer.
9)Fed new timer back through the opening to the front; aligned and snapped into place.
10)Replaced front glass and knobs.
11)Plugged in AC cord (first did inspection for snug connections and potential shorts).
12)Tested buzzer feature of the timer. Unexpected that the buzzer was intermittent.
13)Unplugged power cord. Found & tightened loose connection - not at timer but other end of one of the timer wires at the chassis connection strip.
14)Reinstalled the metal back cover & plugged in the AC cord.
15)Set the timer start and stop times to one hour before present time. (Knobs need to be depressed.)
16)Set clock to present time by depressing the knob IN and rotating it clockwise to the correct time. As clock is manually advanced to the timer start and stop times, verified that each knob popped out. The hand on the clock for the timer moves also, but when you release the knob pressure, the knob pops out and then you set the timer past the buzzing to zero.
18)I put the oven through a self-cleaning cycle. This uses the new timer; starts when the START button pups out and stops when the STOP button pops out. Of course there are other controls you need to manipulate for the self-cleaning cycle i.e. CLEAN settings and the door lock.
a)If AC power is plugged in and an electrical terminal touches the frame, the resulting arc may require that you reset the GFCI or the circuit breaker.
b)The clock failed to run until it was properly mounted (including the back cover in place).
c)Movement of wires can cause them to work loose at EITHER end of the wire.
d)Attempting to operate the clock, Start and Stop knobs may extremely difficult or otherwise ineffective unless it is properly mounted. Fully depressing these knobs / shafts is difficult.
The numbered steps below are how I would do it correctly based on what i learned.
1)I unplugged gas range power cord.
2)Re-positioned range to access the back without damaging the flexible gas supply line.
3)Removed the rear cover (#2 Philips) behind the timer.
4)Verified no voltages present
5)Judged that the front cover glass needed removal - removed timer knobs and front glass cover
6)Removed existing clock timer by using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver to depress the rear of each clip and pushing the time our the front. Old part has damaged gears and one axle end out of position.
7)Fed old timer back through the opening to the rear to assist with transfer of wires.
8)With the assistance of a helper, transferred the wires one at a time from the old to the new timer.
9)Fed new timer back through the opening to the front; aligned and snapped into place.
10)Replaced front glass and knobs.
11)Plugged in AC cord (first did inspection for snug connections and potential shorts).
12)Tested buzzer feature of the timer. Unexpected that the buzzer was intermittent.
13)Unplugged power cord. Found & tightened loose connection - not at timer but other end of one of the timer wires at the chassis connection strip.
14)Reinstalled the metal back cover & plugged in the AC cord.
15)Set the timer start and stop times to one hour before present time. (Knobs need to be depressed.)
16)Set clock to present time by depressing the knob IN and rotating it clockwise to the correct time. As clock is manually advanced to the timer start and stop times, verified that each knob popped out. The hand on the clock for the timer moves also, but when you release the knob pressure, the knob pops out and then you set the timer past the buzzing to zero.
18)I put the oven through a self-cleaning cycle. This uses the new timer; starts when the START button pups out and stops when the STOP button pops out. Of course there are other controls you need to manipulate for the self-cleaning cycle i.e. CLEAN settings and the door lock.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Edward from Webster, NY
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The heating element socket had crumbled with age.
Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!