Models > 31213WAV

31213WAV Magic Chef Range

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Diagrams for 31213WAV

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This flat style oven igniter kit is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the igniter glows white hot, the heat opens the gas valve and ignites the fuel heating the burner assembly. ...
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This top burner igniter comes with a mounting bracket.
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This part includes one range leveling leg, sourced directly from the original manufacturer. The leveling leg is what supports the range and ensures it is sitting level, stable, and at the proper heigh...
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This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode. Please note this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket. Sold individually.
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$20.77
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is an oven rack for your range. It is a stable surface for your cookware to sit when baking and broiling. It measures to be roughly 23 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is made of durable metal ...
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This is a multi-use screw mostly used in dryers. It has a diameter of #10, length of one inch, and thread size of 16. Remember to follow safety practices and instructions provided in the manufacturer ...
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$7.75
Sold individually.
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$61.20
This door seal is fifty-three inches long. It is all black in color and is made of rubber. There are metallic clips sticking out of this seal at various points. These clips help to secure the seal to range doors.
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This part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original part. : This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
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This orifice fitting assembly is sixteen inches long and is made entirely of metal.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 31213WAV

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Gas smell
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
James from Ferndale, MI
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
337 of 373 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Matthew from Brookfield, MA
Parts Used:
WP3412D024-26
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
168 of 185 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
roy from East Providence, RI
Parts Used:
74004053
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
gas burner ignitor failure
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed t hat rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
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