Models > 83LN-3K

83LN-3K Magic Chef Range

Jump to:

Find Part by Name

Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
$31.99
This burner knob is a little over two inches in diameter. It is a white knob and it is made of plastic. There is dark gray lettering on this knob denoting the off, warm, simmer, and high positions. Al...
In Stock
Order within the next 11 hrs and your part ships today!
Sold individually.
In Stock
Order within the next 11 hrs and your part ships today!
No Longer Available
No Longer Available
No Longer Available
No Longer Available
No Longer Available
Valve, top burner
No Longer Available

Questions and Answers

Be the first to ask our experts a question about this part!

Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Roman from West Caldwell, NJ
Parts Used:
WP7403P190-60
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Igniter Switch on the burner was constantly on
To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Hannah from AMHERST, MA
Parts Used:
WP7403P190-60
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Continuous sparking on all burners due to broken ignition switch
1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).

2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.

After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.

Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.

3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.

While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.

4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!