Models > 70231

70231 Litton Range

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Diagrams for 70231

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This flat style oven igniter kit is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the igniter glows white hot, the heat opens the gas valve and ignites the fuel heating the burner assembly. ...
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This is a multi-use screw mostly used in dryers. It has a diameter of #10, length of one inch, and thread size of 16. Remember to follow safety practices and instructions provided in the manufacturer ...
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The top of this part is now black.
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$108.49
This square burner grate has sides measuring almost nine inches long. It is all black in color. Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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This is a multi-use frame screw that fits a variety of power tools and equipment. Follow installation instructions and safety practices provided in the manual by the manufacturer.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This part includes one range leveling leg, sourced directly from the original manufacturer. The leveling leg is what supports the range and ensures it is sitting level, stable, and at the proper heigh...
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$5.36
This screw is sold individually.
Special Order
$161.99
This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity.
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This gas valve knob is two inches in diameter. It is black in color with white lettering denoting the off, high, and light positions. Made entirely of plastic, this knob will accept a 'D' shaped shaft.
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This door handle spacer assembly contains two screws and two spacers.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 70231

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Customer:
James from Ferndale, MI
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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Customer:
Charles from Charlestown, RI
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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Customer:
Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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