KGRT500FAL2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

The only real issue was locating the proper adhesive to ensure that the new pads would not fall out. The small insert paper slip in the package noted that a RTV adhesive should be used. After much searching at the home improvement super store, I learned it would be found at an auto supply store. It is black, and is for high temp use. It is available in a small tube for around $2.00. The RTV is usually used to make gaskets for heat/oil exposure in auto repair. I did have trouble removing a broken stub from a pad that had broken off in the hole. I used an awl to get what I could and push the rest into the hole deeper, then insert a new pad with along with the adhesive.

I removed bottom drawer of the kitchen aid oven.I could see the gas valve.I opened the door of the oven and removed plate on bottom of the oven .there was no screws holding it down ,I removed a couple of screw for the burner and took out 2 screws for the heating element . In the back of the oven .there is 2 wires .one goes to the gas valve located behind the bottom draw.you know can see it from the front with the draw removed,than move the oven out and take the 4 screws holding the back plate .you will see the other wire the element plugs into .you unplug 2 wires and a few screws and you are done.you save alot of money and since this happens alot .you can compare this to changinging a light bulb.It needs maintence from time to time.

Although the ignitors glowed brilliant yellow I learned from an expert there are 2 fail modes. 1. that they break and don't glow well enough to ignite the gas or 2. they get resistive over the years and do not pass enough current to open the valve. This is important to know because the current passes through the ignitor before it gets to the valve. If the ignitor resists too much then the valve never gets enough power to open. As evidence you get slow ignitions until one day it stops altogether.

There are 2 ignitors in this oven. one for the broiler and 1 for the oven. The broiler is exposed so easily removed. For the oven you need to remove the flame spreader cover and the flame spreader. Need a good screw driver for all the screws in the oven because they get corroded from the hostile environment and also the factory torques them in pretty good when new. It is hard to get leverage leaning into an oven without leaning on the oven door which could unhinge it. With a good screw driver and getting a good seat into the screw you can break it loose. Then some muscle power to get it out. 1 screw refused to come out all the way so I grabbed it with some pliers and pulled and twisted it out. A trick I learned from my days as a mechanic is to use valve lapping compound on the screw driver. The diamond dust bites into the screw for a grip on those really bad ones.

The last tricky part is you have to remove the back cover on the oven, unplug the wires and pull the ignitor out through the oven. When you see the wires in the back you will see insulation packing.
Hint: If your smart you will tie a string to the wires before you pull it though so it is easier to pull the new ignitor wires back the same way. Else you need to use a stick to feel your way through the insulation packing to find the wires.

Hardest part of this job is undoing the screws. The rest is easy.

My analysis was flawed. The $100 gas valve was acting erraticaly, so I replaced it. On a hunch, I took the top front off the stove and immediately saw a row of mini relays mounted on the $300 control board. The one labeled "bake" was black!
It is just too small for years of gas on / gas off high current. (The gas valve is indestructable. I took the old one apart. It's only a heater wire wrapped around a bimetalllic arm that lifts a soft pad off of the valve orfice.)
I removed the control board and desoldered the "bake" relay and the "light" relay. I cleaned up the bad "bake" relay contacts and swapped the two relays. Works fine. Better $100 mistake than a $300 control board. (Could have been $0, though.)

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned off the gas then disconnected the gas line. Unplugged the AC cord and removed the unit from the counter top. Had to locate a suitable area to lay the cooktop, rather large. The bottom cover is held on by 6-8 sheet metal screws, however, the gas regulator and nipple must be removed also for the cover to come off. I removed the Igniter module screws, leaving the wires connected and mounted the new module in it's place. I then removed one wire at a time from the old and put it on the new part. Replaced the back cover and reinstalled the gas regulator with fresh pipe sealant. Probably took an hour including cleaning the top and counter top.

slide out range shut off main gas.

remove storage drawer.

disconnect supply hose.

remove oven door (esier access to burner assy

remove burner covers. unscrew igniter assy.

remove rear panel, disconect igniter, pull wires through
front, remove igniter.

reverse process to install new igniter.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Take the door off the oven by sliding out the old hinges that hold the door on to the oven. Put the door up on a protected table so that the hinges can hang down and free of the table. This step will make the job go much more simple. Proceed by removing all visable screws. Make a mental note on how the old hinges are held in and how the door comes apart. Take your time this is not a hard task! I am a homemaker, was taking care of my grandson that day and still accomplished the task in under an hour. The repair people wanted $145.00 labor only to install this part!

I used a screwdriver to pry the electrode assy. out of the burner. then disconnected the wire.
Then just connected the new electrode and place the assy, in the burner.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

real easy one to take care of, when the drawer broke I thought it was more than what it really was, after looking at it and seeing the wheel was gone I ordered the part and it came very quick, drawer is now fixed.