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KGRT507GBS0
KGRT507GBS0 KitchenAid Range
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$11.73
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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These pads go on the bottom of your gas cooktop grates to prevent them from moving and scratching the top of your appliance.
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$98.21
Glass only. This inner door glass is used in ranges. It creates a transparent heat barrier inside your oven door.
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$8.00
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$59.64
The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the ...
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$112.35
This part is used to light the oven for the bake or broil. Be very careful to not touch the black element part of this igniter as it is very fragile.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for KGRT507GBS0
Viewing 10 of 10Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Door won’t close
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Oven not heating evenly
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Noisy
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Gas smell
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- MANNY from LIVERMORE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP9781593
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Inside door glass broke
I removed the oven door by lifting it off with the hinges. Disassembled the door parts one at time making sure I remember where I removed the screws until I am able to get to the broken glass. The most difficult part is making sure that the insulation strip & the gasket stayed in place after I replaced the broken glass & doing the reverse
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process of installing the parts together. Relatively easy process as long as you remember where the parts go. When in doubt, I had to refer to the pictorial of the disassembled door shown on your website.
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- Customer:
- Sabrina from Mooresville, NC
- Parts Used:
- 814323
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
several grate pads fell out/lost /broke during cleaning
The only real issue was locating the proper adhesive to ensure that the new pads would not fall out. The small insert paper slip in the package noted that a RTV adhesive should be used. After much searching at the home improvement super store, I learned it would be found at an auto supply store. It is black, and is for high temp use. It i
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s available in a small tube for around $2.00. The RTV is usually used to make gaskets for heat/oil exposure in auto repair. I did have trouble removing a broken stub from a pad that had broken off in the hole. I used an awl to get what I could and push the rest into the hole deeper, then insert a new pad with along with the adhesive.
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- Customer:
- John from Chicago, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP9782065
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Oven stopped working/Slow to ignite
Although the ignitors glowed brilliant yellow I learned from an expert there are 2 fail modes. 1. that they break and don't glow well enough to ignite the gas or 2. they get resistive over the years and do not pass enough current to open the valve. This is important to know because the current passes through the ignitor before it gets t
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o the valve. If the ignitor resists too much then the valve never gets enough power to open. As evidence you get slow ignitions until one day it stops altogether.
There are 2 ignitors in this oven. one for the broiler and 1 for the oven. The broiler is exposed so easily removed. For the oven you need to remove the flame spreader cover and the flame spreader. Need a good screw driver for all the screws in the oven because they get corroded from the hostile environment and also the factory torques them in pretty good when new. It is hard to get leverage leaning into an oven without leaning on the oven door which could unhinge it. With a good screw driver and getting a good seat into the screw you can break it loose. Then some muscle power to get it out. 1 screw refused to come out all the way so I grabbed it with some pliers and pulled and twisted it out. A trick I learned from my days as a mechanic is to use valve lapping compound on the screw driver. The diamond dust bites into the screw for a grip on those really bad ones.
The last tricky part is you have to remove the back cover on the oven, unplug the wires and pull the ignitor out through the oven. When you see the wires in the back you will see insulation packing.
Hint: If your smart you will tie a string to the wires before you pull it though so it is easier to pull the new ignitor wires back the same way. Else you need to use a stick to feel your way through the insulation packing to find the wires.
Hardest part of this job is undoing the screws. The rest is easy.
There are 2 ignitors in this oven. one for the broiler and 1 for the oven. The broiler is exposed so easily removed. For the oven you need to remove the flame spreader cover and the flame spreader. Need a good screw driver for all the screws in the oven because they get corroded from the hostile environment and also the factory torques them in pretty good when new. It is hard to get leverage leaning into an oven without leaning on the oven door which could unhinge it. With a good screw driver and getting a good seat into the screw you can break it loose. Then some muscle power to get it out. 1 screw refused to come out all the way so I grabbed it with some pliers and pulled and twisted it out. A trick I learned from my days as a mechanic is to use valve lapping compound on the screw driver. The diamond dust bites into the screw for a grip on those really bad ones.
The last tricky part is you have to remove the back cover on the oven, unplug the wires and pull the ignitor out through the oven. When you see the wires in the back you will see insulation packing.
Hint: If your smart you will tie a string to the wires before you pull it though so it is easier to pull the new ignitor wires back the same way. Else you need to use a stick to feel your way through the insulation packing to find the wires.
Hardest part of this job is undoing the screws. The rest is easy.
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