Models > KDSS907SSS04

KDSS907SSS04 KitchenAid Range

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Manuals & Guides for KDSS907SSS04

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This is a genuine OEM Torx screw that measures 7-18 and 3/4-inch. The screw is sold individually and can be used in a variety of appliances. The star shaped head allows the screw to have more torque a...
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Sold individually. This surface burner grate is for ranges. Surface burner grate provides a stable surface for cookware on the surface burner. Wait until the surface is cool to the touch before ...
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This chrome oven rack is a genuine replacement component designed to fit a variety of standard ovens. Measuring approximately 24.76 inches wide by 15.78 inches deep, it provides a stable surface for b...
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$20.95
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This broil element sits at the top of your oven and provides the high heat needed for broiling. If your oven isn’t heating properly or food isn’t cooking evenly, replacing this part can help. It’s bui...
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
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Also known as Thermal cut-off (fuse). This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This 15-watt, 120-volt light bulb is designed to illuminate the interior of wall ovens and ranges, allowing clear visibility during cooking. It serves as a direct replacement for burned-out bulbs and ...
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$7.30
Sold individually.
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This is the terminal block for the power cord on an electric range.
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for KDSS907SSS04

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Door won’t close
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will not program
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Joseph from Worthington, PA
Parts Used:
WP9759242
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Self Cleaning blows the thermostat fuse
Something Kitchen Aid wont tell you but running a self clean on this model stove blows the fuse located on the back of the stove.

First I slid the stove out and removed the back of the stove held in place by 8 Phillips screws. The thermostat fuse is located near the top middle on the back of the stove. Remove the 2 screws hold ing it in place. Disconnect the wires, plug in the new part. Put it all back together. Job done in less than 30 minutes.

This repair would have cost $164 through A&E factory service.
137 of 156 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
john from new market, MD
Parts Used:
WP9759242
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Power shut down and door lock-up after self-cleaning
My wife used the self cleaning function for the first time after 1.5 years of owning, of course out of warranty. A quick google search identified the problem. Called Kitchenaid, they said of course it can't be that simple, they had never heard of this problem, need to schedule a service call. Googled and found this site, Ordered the part , came in, only took a screwdriver and about 20 minutes, just like all the other posts.

shame on Kitchenaid for not owning up to the problem. I even e-mailed them all the links, they did not acknowledge them.
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Customer:
David from Catonsville, MD
Parts Used:
WP9760774
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The broiler element in my wall oven burned out
This was easy and I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble and expense of hiring an appliance repair person. I'm reasonably handy, but I really have no experience in this kind of repair. I'd like to mention that the part I ordered arrived in just two days and it was exactly the right part, so I was very pleased in that regard.

Aft er turning off the circuit to the wall oven and confirming that the power was off, I had to remove the oven from the wall in order to access the wires and connections in the back. Normally, this wouldn't have been necessary because usually the broiler element can be disconnected from the clasps that connect it to the electric source by simply unscrewing the defective element from the roof of the oven, pulling gently on the connection ends from inside the oven cavity in order to "pull out" an inch or two of the electric source wires and the metal clasps that accept the "male" connecting ends of the broiler element. Once the a bit of the wire and the metal connecting clasps are exposed and able to be held with pliers, the element can be disconnected from the connector clasps by simply pulling on the prongs of the element (hard).

But in my case, one of the metal connecting clasp for one of the wires had melted, presumably when the element burned out, and that clasp could only be accessed and replaced from the back of the oven. Also, I would imagine that the wires and clasps could "slip" back behind the unit when they're disconnected if that's not done carefully. However, removing the wall oven was pretty easy for me -- even as a one-person job. I just put a tall table in front of it and slid it out so that it rested on the table.

If you have to replace a metal connector clasp, they're inexpensive and available in the electrical departments of hardware/home stores.

In my case, there's a metal panel at the back of the oven that had to be unscrewed and removed so that I could access the areas where the electrical source wires connect through the back wall of the oven to the broiler element. This was just a matter of removing a few screws and then removing the metal panel.

Once the metal panel at the back of the oven was removed, I was able to replace the melted connection clasp by using a wire cutter/stripper and then pliers to secure the clasp on the end of the exposed wired by deforming the clamp with the pliers. Once that was done, I simply removed the screws that held the broiler element to the top of the oven cavity, disconnected the remaining three clasps that connect the element to the source wires (the fourth clasp was the one that had melted and that I'd replaced), removed the defective element, inserted the four "male" prongs of the broiler into the four clasps that connect them to the source wires, replaced the metal panel at the back of the oven, screwed the new element back into the top of the oven, slid the oven back into the wall cavity, turned the circuit back on, crossed my fingers, and everything worked like a charm.

I saved a money, but more importantly (for me) I saved a lot of time that I would have had to have spent waiting around for a repair person.
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