KSDB900ESS6 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

First, we turned on broil and the upper element turned orange and obviously worked. We figured the bottom element went out. The diagram on this site showed a bottom heating element that looked nothing like ours, but after reading other reviews, and reading that part that goes through the back of the oven was in the middle, and not off to the side, we ordered this element. It was perfect. All you have to do is unplug the oven, take out the bottom pan covering the element by removing 2 screws in the back, remove the lower small cover on the back of the oven and then unplug the old element, unscrew the old element on the inside of the stove, then install the new element and put everything back like it was. Nothing to it. It worked like a charm and my oven now heats up fast again. Easiest appliance repair job ever!

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

1. Unplugged stove
2. Removed two (2) screws from bottom panel in oven cavity
3. Lifted out bottom panel
4. Removed two (2) screws from bake element standoffs.
5. Removed two (2) screws from bake element (Rear of oven cavity)
6. Removed Terminal Block Cover Box by removing two (2) screws and lifting up on it.
7. Removed lugs from the ends of the bake element.
8. Extracted bake element.
9 Inserted bake element through rear opening and attached the two lugs removed in step 7.
10 Inserted two screws removed in step 5.
11. This bake element only had a standoff bracket in the front. Used one (1) screw from step 4. for front standoff.
12 Replaced bottom panel and two screws.
13 Reinstalled Terminal Block Cover Box and two screws.
14. Plugged oven in and tested oven.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Unplug from power source, remove panel on back of range, unplug power connections for bottom element on back of range, remove bottom pan in oven installed element, put back together in reverse. Video on parts select website is the bomb!

We watched the excellent video and followed the steps. We're in our 70s which is why we needed a flashlight to see the screws in the oven! So if we can do it...

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

I watched a video on google on how to replace the element and then looked on the internet to order the element. When the part arrived, I pulled the range out and unplugged it. Then I watched the video again and followed the techs instructions to remove the element and replaced it with the new one. It’s a very simple process that I think almost anyone can do . The online videos make the job easier because they show exactly the order of disassembly and assembly, and Part Select helped with finding the right part and shipping it in a timely manner. Thank you!

An easy repair. I just needed a screwdriver.
I watched the video that you sent me with the part. I followed the directions in the video and the job was completed in 30 minutes!
Easy Peazy!! I’m back to cooking!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Opened the breaker for the oven. Verified the power was off. Removed the racks from the oven. Using a screw driver removed two screws in the back of the oven holding down the steam bake bottom of the oven, pulled up from the back to get the pan out. Removed the screw holding the front of the element in place. Removed the screw in the shiny metal of the element at the back. Gingerly pulled the element to the front and as the element stopped slightly turned the element to let the prints come out. That part was challenging to get the angle right so not to damage the wires. Using a small Phillips screw driver I pushed in on the connector latch on the terminal and then pulled the terminals off the element one at a time. Follow all the steps in reverse to install the new one.

Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks

Unplug the appliance, remove the bottom cover inside the range and the cover in the rear to unplug the heating element. R&r the element, reinstall the covers and test for proper operation.