KSEG700ESS7 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

First, we turned on broil and the upper element turned orange and obviously worked. We figured the bottom element went out. The diagram on this site showed a bottom heating element that looked nothing like ours, but after reading other reviews, and reading that part that goes through the back of the oven was in the middle, and not off to the side, we ordered this element. It was perfect. All you have to do is unplug the oven, take out the bottom pan covering the element by removing 2 screws in the back, remove the lower small cover on the back of the oven and then unplug the old element, unscrew the old element on the inside of the stove, then install the new element and put everything back like it was. Nothing to it. It worked like a charm and my oven now heats up fast again. Easiest appliance repair job ever!

Took 2 screws under front edge of smooth top. Unscrewed ground wire from back of smooth top unit. Unplugged 2 wire bundles, from back. Took bad element out , put in new one. Put back together. About 10 min's tops. Easy peasy.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

1. Unplugged stove
2. Removed two (2) screws from bottom panel in oven cavity
3. Lifted out bottom panel
4. Removed two (2) screws from bake element standoffs.
5. Removed two (2) screws from bake element (Rear of oven cavity)
6. Removed Terminal Block Cover Box by removing two (2) screws and lifting up on it.
7. Removed lugs from the ends of the bake element.
8. Extracted bake element.
9 Inserted bake element through rear opening and attached the two lugs removed in step 7.
10 Inserted two screws removed in step 5.
11. This bake element only had a standoff bracket in the front. Used one (1) screw from step 4. for front standoff.
12 Replaced bottom panel and two screws.
13 Reinstalled Terminal Block Cover Box and two screws.
14. Plugged oven in and tested oven.

really easy! Removed 2 screws under the glass top at the front, access from the open oven door, then removed the ground wire, removed the stove top, took the element holder off,( 2 screws)and replaced with new element, 30 minutes. I ordered the part and came within 18 hrs of ordering it, fantastic experience.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Unplug from power source, remove panel on back of range, unplug power connections for bottom element on back of range, remove bottom pan in oven installed element, put back together in reverse. Video on parts select website is the bomb!

Remove top by opening oven and taking out two screws in the front. Lift up top and unplug wire connectors on bad element, writing down where they are landed. Take out screw on element bracket and replace. That easy. Be sure to unplug appliance for your safety. :-) Also just wanted to add that PartSelect was great. Ordered it on saturday and was cooking with it on tuesday. Great job.

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

We watched the excellent video and followed the steps. We're in our 70s which is why we needed a flashlight to see the screws in the oven! So if we can do it...

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

I watched a video on google on how to replace the element and then looked on the internet to order the element. When the part arrived, I pulled the range out and unplugged it. Then I watched the video again and followed the techs instructions to remove the element and replaced it with the new one. It’s a very simple process that I think almost anyone can do . The online videos make the job easier because they show exactly the order of disassembly and assembly, and Part Select helped with finding the right part and shipping it in a timely manner. Thank you!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.