Models > 91193591990

91193591990 Kenmore Range

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This burner bowl, also known as a drip bowl, is an authentic OEM part for your electric range or cooktop. This part is black in color and designed to fit under the 8-inch coiled burner elements and is...
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This genuine OEM burner bowl, also known as a drip tray, is black and color and measures 6 inches in diameter. It is designed to be used under the coiled elements on an electric stove or range, in ord...
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If your burner element is not turning on or heating up, it is possible there is an issue with the switch. The surface burner switch, also known as an infinite heat switch, is what turns your burner el...
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This broil element is found on the upper part of the oven cavity.
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This infinite switch controls the heat level of a 6-inch, 1560-watt surface element by regulating power flow. It operates at 240 volts and helps maintain consistent temperatures. Replacing it can fix ...
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This burner bowl or drip pan is found beneath the heating element on your cooktop or range. This part measures 8 inches in diameter, and should not be confused with the smaller pan, which measures 6 i...
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$51.45
This is an authentic GE oven rack, sourced directly from the manufacturer. It is made of metal, and provides a stable surface for cookware inside the oven. If your current oven rack is damaged or miss...
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This gray drip bowl is sold individually.
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$14.65
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$23.05
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$14.65
This screw is sold individually.
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This is a broiler pan for your range. It catches drippings from the cookware, when broiling in the oven. This assembly includes the grill/grate and the bottom pan. These parts are made of porcelain. T...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 91193591990

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
Marc from Columbia, NJ
Parts Used:
WB24T10029, WB24T10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
97 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
paul from west grove, PA
Parts Used:
WB44T10009
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Broiler element failed
repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connect ion..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..
66 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Rick from Avon Park, FL
Parts Used:
WB24T10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner was constantly at high heat
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed t he back panel in place.
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