If the oven burner igniter in your gas range is no longer working, this is a genuine OEM replacement. The igniter is used to ignite the gas in order to light the oven burner. If the igniter is not wor...
Sold individually. This part helps the flame to spread for even heat. Also protects your burner head from spills. The surface burner cap is located on the top of the burner head and is used in ranges ...
This is an anti-tip kit for your range. The kit comes with two installation screws, one metal bracket, and instructions. The kit stops your freestanding range from tipping over due to extra weight on ...
This part is the igniter/orifice mounting screw for your cooktop or range. It is approximately ½ an inch in length and is made of metal. The mounting screw connects the orifice to the cooktop. If the ...
This is a genuine OEM replacement temperature sensor for your range. You may need to replace the sensor if there is little to no heat in the oven, the oven will not start, it is not heating evenly, or...
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Jeff
June 3, 2023
The oven preheats and reaches temperature and the burner shuts off. When it tries to relight again to bring the temp back up it doesn’t and the clock flashes 12:00 like the power was interrupted. I replaced the hot surface ignitor and temp probe as I had them as spares so am I correct that the control board is probably bad?
For model number 79073433314
Hello Jeff, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description you provided, the issue does seem to be with the oven control board. We recommend you replace it, part number FIX1528270, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new. Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe. I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up. the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires. After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
