79097633301 Kenmore Range - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

VERY IMPORTANT! kill the circuit breaker to the unit and/or unplugged it! 2 screws hold the ceramic glass top to the lip @ top of oven--remove them and the top can be lifted up to expose all the burner elements and wiring--remove the 2 end screws that hold the retainer bracket for the burners - then remove the 2 screws that hold the burner in question to the bracket-there's also a retainer pin that needs a bit of fussing with to completely free the burner--once totally free remove the wires from the bad unit to the good unit exactly as they are situated --install new unit onto bracket with screws and bracket back to its original location on the ceramic top-put top back down and replace both anchor screws--initiate power back to unit and yeeehahh--You just saved yourself lottsa money from repair bills!!!

FIRST I UNPLUGGED THE GLASS TOP RANGE. While locating the part on the PartSelect diagram I was also able to determine how to access the burned out element. It was very simply to remove three phillips head screws in the front top( above the oven)area of the range, slide the topof the range forwardand lift it up, remove one screw holding the metal bar under the element, replace the element by usinga a pair of pliers to remove the electrical wires and then reversed the process. I saved a tidy amount doing the job myself.

killed the 50 amp power. removed 3 screws from above oven door slid out cook top, dropped brace holding 2 front burners. The connector corroded off had to look for a high heat connector to connect to the element, after that just screwed everything back together.

All of a sudden, one element in our glasstop range would not light and heat up. My wife and I were not sure what to do. Looked it up on the internet, found that you can do it yourself as others desribed the process of accessing the elements below. We decided to do that. It takes two people as one is holding up the glass because it opens like a car hood. While we diagnosed it was not a wiring issue (found a burnt wire, rewired the burnt wires (after mending the non burnt portions) to another element. The element that was not working before still did not turn on. Decided to purchase an element. While many online places sell elements, PartSelect actually allowed searching by brand with exploded views of the range to select the exact parts. This lessened the worry of purchasing a wrong element. When the part came (almost one day later), the repair was less than five minutes. Thank you PartSelect. I feel I saved a lot of money and aggravation.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

I went all the way around the unit and removed screws holding top of unit in place. Removed knobs holding front panel in place. Remove control panel. top should come off. Remove screws attaching element top and metal frame. Undo bracket and remove element. Disconnect wires. Remember where they were attached.
Replace element and reverse steps.

Disconnected power. Removed hold down fasteners for stove top. Fortunately, I did not flue down or use the double back tape to secure stovetop to counter. If this adhesive were used, it is possible I would have had great difficulty in removing range. I did not disconnect the wiring, but turned the range top over to access the cover. I removed the cover and easily removed the failed burner and installed the new ones. I had to pull 4 wires from the terminal strip and reattach them. The hold down strap for the burner was reinstalled. Range top turned back over and fastened down. Back in service.

Followed the instruction printed on the page, while ordering the part.

Removed screws on the sides and front.
Labeled the wire sets connected to the front control panel.
Gently lifted up the stove top and flipped it over on to a towel.
Removed the piece of metal holding down the burner.
Disconnected the cables to the old burner.
Repeated steps above in reverse.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!