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3626111192 Kenmore Range

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This is a genuine OEM replacement round style igniter for your gas oven. Also known as a bake and broil igniter, this part is used to ignite the gas in order to light the oven burner and produce heat ...
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Sold individually.
In Stock
Both burners are mounted on the same bracket.
In Stock
$67.42
If the racks in your oven have become discolored, or if you need a spare, this is a genuine OEM replacement. The rack is used to hold cookware in the oven, and slides in and out of the oven for easy a...
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This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity.
On Order
This oven door gasket prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use. It contains all of the attaching clips needed for installation.
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$8.06
Size: 10-32 GXTT FLP .595 Sold individually.
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This igniter comes with the wire harness.
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$9.68
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Special Order
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 3626111192

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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Customer:
Mark from Upland, CA
Parts Used:
WB2X9154
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No ignition
Unplug the oven.
Open the oven door.
Remove the racks.
Remove the two screws that hold the oven floor; they are located toward the back.
Remove the oven floor pan.
Remove the screw holding the heat shield/dispenser.
Remove the heat shield/dispenser.
Untwist the ceramic wire caps on the two igniter wires.
Remove the two screws holding the igniter.
Remove the igniter.
Replace the igniter working all the steps backwards.
It’s super simple.
765 of 831 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Robert from Hebron, CT
Parts Used:
WB2X9154
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
broiler works, bake oven does not work.
Your website help me troubleshoot the problem and locate the part. Part was delivered the next day. Following the instructions that others on your website had provided, the repair was quick and SUCCESSFUL.
Gas will not flow if the igniter is bad. Gas will only flow if the igniter heats up the internal bimetal strip which in turn, allows gas to flow through the safety valve
First, unplug the power sourse. For this repair it is not necessary to shut off the gas, but do so if it makes you more comfortable. Remove the oven door...it lifts right off. Next, remove the screws and lift out the bottom panel in the oven box. This will expose the igniter. Next, remove the lower drawer. Two 1/4-28 screws retain the igniter...remove these. With the drawer removed, go underneath and locate the 2 wires to the igniter. One has a green connector, and the other has a red connector. Disconnect these 2 wires and carefully remove the igniter and wires. Cut the wires from the igniter on the igniter end. You will need to reuse the plug end of each wire, so don't cut them too short. Splice these two wires to the new igniter with the wire splice caps provided. Feed the wires back down throught the opening at the back of the oven and carefully move the igniter into place. Install the two 1/4-28 retaining screws. Go back underneath the oven through the drawer opening and plug in the 2 wires. You should be good to go. Reassemble the oven and have mama bake a cake..
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Customer:
Paul from Santa Rosa, CA
Parts Used:
WB2X9154
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Oven igniter failed to heat up and ignite the gas burner.
Before starting it's a good idea to disconnect the electricity and turn the gas valve off behind the stove.

Next, uncrew the two finger-screws at the back of the oven that hold the porcelain & steel drip plate in. It comes out if you push it towards the back of the oven and lift it out. This reveals the burner and the cylin drical igniter attached to the side of the burner. While I was there I unscrewed the one screw at the front end of the burner (nearest me).

After attempting the repair from inside the oven, I realized it was far easier to pull out the bottom drawer and work from under the oven instead. Using only one size mini-socket for all screws it was easy. I undid the two screws that hold the main burner to the back of the oven. This allowed me to pull the burner up inside the oven so I could access the screws that held the igniter to the side of the burner. A flashlight helps when working under the oven.

Under the oven again I then pulled the two wires off their respective connectors. Then inside the oven unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter to the burner. The old part came off very easily. However, the new part didn't have connectors attached, so I had to remember which wire went where and cut the old connectors off and splice them to the new. Be sure to leave yourself as much of the old wire as possible attached to the connector. Otherswise you might find the "new" wires too short to reach the connectors.

I reconnected the igniter to the main burner with the two screws. Then fed the burner and wires back into place. I then lightly screwed the single front screw on the burner (inside the oven) to help position the burner, then went underneath to install the other two screws.

Under the oven I made sure the wires fit onto their connectors then tightened the two screws to hold the burner to the back wall. Once the burner was properly in place I tightened the two screws and the single one inside the oven.

I then plugged the oven back in and turned on the gas flow. I turned the oven dial and watched the new igniter glow wonderfully.

Finally I replaced the porcelain floor cover inside the oven. These finger screws can be a bit tricky because they go into a threaded clip that might have moved while you worked. The whole task took less than 30 minutes - and I had never done this before.
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