79096422400 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

I replaced the door hinges and put a new handle on the oven door. I can not remember what was done exactly because I had a 2 and 4 yr old helping me. But I can tell you that the instructions included with the kit made the job easy. There were a few problems with the type of bit used to get the screws off (I needed a star type of bit, but used my phillips because that's what I had on hand). It worked fine, but it would have been better with the star tip screwdriver. There were helpfull hints that told me to prethread the new screws going into the oven door and frame. That was a big help instead of trying to hold the part and start the self threading screws. All in all I would order the parts again and attempt to do another repair on my oven, because it saved me a lot of money. Good luck to all the other first time repairers out there.

First my husband cut off the circuit breaker. He then removed the two screws that held the element in place and pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. The rest was easy. We were impressed at how fast the element was sent. We were told about 5 days to 7 days. The element arrived on the second day. Very please with the service and the product.

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store for that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.

My husband opened the oven door.He removed the metal strip at the top just under where the knobs are.I held the top of the stove up while he unscrewed the 2 screws on either side of where the knob goes and he unplugged the connectors on the switch assembly one at a time a reconnected the new ones. We slid the post through the hole and lined up the two holes put the screws back in. Walah. I cont. holding up stove he got a socket to unscrew the strip holding the back elements in place. He undid just the one side used pliers to squeeze clamp together pushed the little post through the slot....unplugged the connectors keeping track of them. He used a screwdriver to unscrew clamps to screw them onto the new element at the same number as he took them off the old element. We popped the new element back in hooking up all connectors poked the little clamp posts through the holes attached the screw that is the strip holding elements in place. We closed the stovetop We lined the metal strip up at top of oven door underneath the knobs and put the 4 screws back in and closed the door. Done. I would say it took maybe 30 min.if that. Works like a champ.

My problem with the door was a bit serious because not only would I lose heat from the top of the door, but could not use the convection oven unless the door closed tightly.

However, the repair could not have gone easier. The instructions were very simple and totally accurate. I would suggest that anyone doing this job with a door that has full glass across the front should have a helper neaby. The door is quite heavy.

This probably the easiest repair job I have ever done, and I have done many.

Removed the door and the inner panel of the door and replaced the hinges. Replaced the screws and put the oven door back on. It closes tight now just like new. I have now ordered the replacement cap so my oven looks like new again.

I only have one suggestion to make the installation easier. If the manufacturer would prethread the holes in the new parts, it would save time from having to prethread the holes with the screws, prior to installing them.

Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center portion was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.

Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.