Models
>
91193601002
91193601002 Kenmore Range
Jump to:
Find Part by Name
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
$17.92
This burner bowl, also known as a drip bowl, is an authentic OEM part for your electric range or cooktop. This part is black in color and designed to fit under the 8-inch coiled burner elements and is...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
$16.56
This genuine OEM burner bowl, also known as a drip tray, is black and color and measures 6 inches in diameter. It is designed to be used under the coiled elements on an electric stove or range, in ord...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
The terminal block is the socket for the coiled burner elements of your cooktop or range in order for the burners to heat up. If your element is not heating up or turning on, there may be an issue wit...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
If your burner element is not turning on or heating up, it is possible there is an issue with the switch. The surface burner switch, also known as an infinite heat switch, is what turns your burner el...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
$38.48
If your oven is running hot, not heating evenly, not coming up to temperature, or just not heating up at all, there may be an issue with the temperature sensor. This sensor is usually found in the bac...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
$11.02
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
$13.05
This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
This switch controls the small burner on a range/stove top.
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
$30.47
This burner bowl or drip pan is found beneath the heating element on your cooktop or range. This part measures 8 inches in diameter, and should not be confused with the smaller pan, which measures 6 i...
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions and Answers
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
Common Problems and Symptoms for 91193601002
Viewing 7 of 7Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Little to no heat when broiling
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Oven not heating evenly
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Oven is too hot
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec
... Read more
trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
Read less
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Peter from stamford, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Marc from Columbia, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029, WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Read less
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!