79060721901 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

First i want to thank you for the quick responce, i got my order in one day. Took top of stove off, took out the old part, put the new one in, made several test to adjust the heat settings put everything back together alls well, now my wife can cook things without burning everything, thank you from the bottom of my heart, a happy wife means a happy man. William L Zeis.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

Lifted top burner plate, removed all knobs, removed front plate that holds oven burner control. Removed burner control feedind thermocouple through hole at top of oven. Installed new oven control, fed t-couple back through hole and placed in holder. Put front plate back in place and re-installed knobs. Oven works great now, lights at 200* where as before would not light at less than 400* setting. Took only a straight blade and phillips screwdriver to do the job in less than 1 hour, that included cleaning the front plate and knobs while they wereoff.

Unplug the old ones and the new ones snapped into place.

Apparently, the original insulation had been removed due to a mouse infestation-the unit had been in storage for a while. After removing about 50 screws, I had all the body panels off and cleaned out the interior of the stove then installed the new insulation. I put it all back together and hooked it up- works just like new. I only paid 60 bucks for this oven, so all in all, not a bad deal.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

I repaired with the use of 1 Phillips & 1 flathead screwdriver. It was very easy.

1)First unplug range.
On inside of oven, there's a copper, pen-like object connected to a copper wire. 2)Open the clips on side of oven that hold the pen-like object(the probe.)
3)Open the lid of the stove. On left hand side, there's a hole through which to pull the copper wire and probe out of the stove. Or you can just as easily use wire cutters to cut off probe and just pull wire from the oven through the hole. 4)Pull off the oven's thermostat control knob. Using screwdriver, unscrew both screws under where the knob was. 5)Now pull the flat wire connecters from both sides of the old thermostat. Remember which wire goes on which side.
6)Remove old thermostat and copper wire that's connected to it.
Replace thermostat. 7)Feed copper wire with probe through hole on left side of stove.
8)Slide flat wire connecters onto sides of new thermostat. Replace screws. Insert new probe into clips on side of oven. Close stove cover. Replace thermostat control knob. Plug in range. Test thermostat. 9)According to owner's manual, turn oven to 350° and oven should be no more than 50° above setting.

Easy as pie. I had the new part in my hands in less than 48 hours. Fortunately for me it was a simple fix and I was literally cooking in under 15 minutes. I was a little worried about doing anything to a gas stove, but by looking at the other unbroken side, it was just a matter of snapping together a new assembly. What a wonderful website!

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

It was so easy. I am 66 yrs old. It only took 30 minutes and a screwdiver. I was totally amazed and I thank you.

Replaced uper orifice n adjusted oven as instructed.

The Appliance light was installed in a wood burning oven used by a commercial bakery. The entirely masonry oven is used to cook a specialty product with origins in Brazil.
We first drilled a 11-3/4 hole from the inside of the oven starting at the fire brick that passed through the concrete block outer shell of the oven to accommodate the insulated wiring to the on/off switch outside the oven. Then we commissioned a special steel cowling to enclose the the back and sides of the lamp so that the lamp faced down, instead of out and the back of the fixture was protected. The back of the lamp was attached to the insulated switch wires, then the custom lamp housing with filled with fire proof insulation. The entire lamp housing was then attached to the upper face of the masonry wall with 1/4" x 4" masonry bolt head screws. This type of installation was required because the oven overall size of 6' tall x 4' wide X 4' ID dimensions required a heat resistant light to illuminate 15 shelves of product being produced.
The oven lamp purchased works perfectly for the new oven. By the way, the oven does not have a brand, as it was created as a one of a kind, the brand of the oven lamp was taken from a Kenmore Gas Range.