79090900602 Kenmore Range - Instructions

We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Replaced the probe because that's what this site recommended.The oven still does not heat up.

I had to replace the switch in the back of the control knobs. I was very grateful to the female phone attendant who answered my call. Since my part number had switched a few times, she took the time to reverify the "blueprints" of my machine with the parts carried at Parts Select and she helped me be assured that I was buying the correct part for my machine. She was SOOOO helpful. Will definately buy again from your store.

Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.

took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.

Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.

TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE

Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.

move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps

I pulled out the old element and the new one just plugged right in.

The top of the door trim broke causing the side and glass to be loose. Easy fix by removing the broken trim and installing the new one.

Approximately 2 minutes to replace.

First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.

Just a replacement burner for my stove. No tools needed. Thank you for such a speedy delivery