Models > 79090810405

79090810405 Kenmore Range

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The infinite burner switch is used to control the temperature of the burner element on your stove top. This model is for the larger, eight-inch element. If your burner is not heating up or has uneven ...
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$26.20
This 40-watt light bulb has a standard screw-in base and is used in many different appliances. If your current bulb is burnt out or broken you will need to replace it. This light bulb is a genuine OEM...
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This genuine OEM mounting screw is used to bolt the door handle to your range. The screw measures approximately 2 inches long and is sold individually. If your oven door handle has come loose or falle...
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This element has looped terminal ends and comes with a black medallion center. This element is a genuine OEM replacement part, has looped terminal ends, comes with a black medallion center, and fits m...
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This six-inch drip bowl or drip pan is found underneath the small surface element on your cooktop or range. A similar eight-inch drip bowl also exists, so be sure to check which size you need. The dri...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement temperature sensor for your range. You may need to replace the sensor if there is little to no heat in the oven, the oven will not start, it is not heating evenly, or...
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This part is a replacement clock overlay for your range. It is black in color and approximately 7 inches by 3 inches. The clock overlay is found on the control panel, and it covers and labels the sele...
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Sold Individually. These legs should be adjusted to make your appliance level on uneven flooring.
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Size: 3/4 inch od x 1/4 inch id
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If your oven isn’t holding heat like it used to, the door gasket might be the culprit. This flexible seal lines the edge of the oven door to keep heat inside while you cook, helping your meals bake ev...
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This includes pan and insert.
No Longer Available
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 79090810405

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Touchpad does not respond
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Will not program
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Customer:
William from Burke, VA
Parts Used:
316436001
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
134 of 150 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
MaryLou from Monroe, NC
Parts Used:
316233903
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Range would not come on
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir es.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
107 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
Parts Used:
316116400
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
68 of 110 people found this instruction helpful.
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