62946965 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Gene from Washington C.H., OH
- Parts Used:
- WP71002111
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replace Grease Filter
Just a couple of minutes to left off the cover grid, left out the old filter and drop in the new one.
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- Customer:
- James H from Oxford, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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- Customer:
- Marie from New Smyrna Bch, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP71002111
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed to replace filter
Just placed it at the filter location. Liked the ring feature on the filter for ease of removal for cleaning. My previous ones didn't have such feature. Thank you for filling my order. I bought an extra filter for the future. I'm a big user of my Jenn-Air range. I may soon be needing to replace my griddle. Will be contacting your company then.
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- Customer:
- Linda from Palo Alto, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP71002111
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old grease filter was bent and needed replacing
I simply lifted off the grille in the center of the stove, pulled out the old filter and dropped the new one in. It sits at an angle (right side down, left side up) rather than slotting in to a particular spot.
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- Customer:
- Randall from Mohnton, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner Control not Functioning
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
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- Customer:
- Sherman from Perry, GA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dual element burner only stays on high
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
We had no control of tempurature on one of the four burners on the electric range cook top
First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.
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- Customer:
- donna from baltimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP179051
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
missing screws for oven door
After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from St. Paul, MN
- Parts Used:
- WPY04100514
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Top element was burned out
I removed three screws, pulled the element out from the rear wall, unplugged the electrical connections, reversed these steps in installing the new element. "A Piece Of Cake!"
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- Customer:
- Peter from Savannah, GA
- Parts Used:
- 12200028
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Lightening blew out the digital clock works and therefore we couldn't use the self clean oven.
turned off electricity at the circuit breaker.Pulled stove out and looked at the way the control center was attached to the rest of the stove. Removed the knobs and 4 screws and the complete panel could be removed (or pulled out from the oven-wires are still all attached). Then checked with an electric meter to insure the power was off to all the wires. The clock is a self contained unit and all I had to do was to remove 4 screws holding a face plate, replace the unit and reverse the procedure. Only problem I had was getting the screws back into the face plate (I was only able to get 2 threaded-but that will hold for the life of the stove) and put it alll back together. It works wonderfully.
I had a repair company on the phone who said that the service call would be $185 and if I was right about the clock being the problem, that would cost another $345 for the clock and $85 for the return service call to install. I ordered the part from PartSelect .com on Sunday, had it by Thursday and installed that night. My cost was $195 vs approx $600. Why would you do anything else?
I had a repair company on the phone who said that the service call would be $185 and if I was right about the clock being the problem, that would cost another $345 for the clock and $85 for the return service call to install. I ordered the part from PartSelect .com on Sunday, had it by Thursday and installed that night. My cost was $195 vs approx $600. Why would you do anything else?
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- Customer:
- Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Parts Used:
- 4396923
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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Infinite switch malfuctioning and indicator light not working.
I changed out the infinite switch without any problems. The indicator light was another problem. It wasn't the light that was bad, it was the indicator light lens that snaps into the panel. The light then attaches to the lense. The lense broke and the indicator light pulled away with the tension on the wires. Now I have to order replacement lens and will have a spare indicator light.
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- Customer:
- David from Plainfield, IN
- Parts Used:
- 12200028
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Clock and timer unit not working after lighting storm
Removed 4 screws under the top unit that holds the stove control knobs. Open oven door for better view. Tilt whole unit (width of stove) up and out of top flange. Remove knobs for timer and the two control knobs (that operate the range burners) nearest the clock. Take out the screws by these knobs, 2 per knob and then you can get the frame that holds clock unit out. Make a drawing of wires to replace on timer unit or as I un plugged one I hooked it up to the new unit. Make sure you have turned off range at your fuse box before working on stove. Works good as new now, I assume it was hit by lighting that also made me replace our garage door opener.
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- Customer:
- Bertram from San Clemente, CA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Overheating burner
Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Daytona Beach Shores, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP7518P054-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Grill coating had eroded.
Simple, take off the old and put on the new/ Delivery was excellent (next day).
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