Models > 91194600300

91194600300 Kenmore Range

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This burner bowl, also known as a drip bowl, is an authentic OEM part for your electric range or cooktop. This part is black in color and designed to fit under the 8-inch coiled burner elements and is...
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This genuine OEM burner bowl, also known as a drip tray, is black and color and measures 6 inches in diameter. It is designed to be used under the coiled elements on an electric stove or range, in ord...
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The terminal block is the socket for the coiled burner elements of your cooktop or range in order for the burners to heat up. If your element is not heating up or turning on, there may be an issue wit...
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If your burner element is not turning on or heating up, it is possible there is an issue with the switch. The surface burner switch, also known as an infinite heat switch, is what turns your burner el...
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If your oven is running hot, not heating evenly, not coming up to temperature, or just not heating up at all, there may be an issue with the temperature sensor. This sensor is usually found in the bac...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
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This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawe...
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$59.11
Sold individually.
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This broil element is found on the upper part of the oven cavity.
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This infinite switch controls the heat level of a 6-inch, 1560-watt surface element by regulating power flow. It operates at 240 volts and helps maintain consistent temperatures. Replacing it can fix ...
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Sold individually.
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This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 91194600300

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
Peter from stamford, CT
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
148 of 226 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Marc from Columbia, NJ
Parts Used:
WB24T10029, WB24T10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
97 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
paul from west grove, PA
Parts Used:
WB44T10009
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Broiler element failed
repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connect ion..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..
66 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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