79071851300 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I followed the simple instructions that were included in the kit. I started by replacing the 5 orifices on the top burners. The orifices are well labeled with numbers and colors. Next, I tightened the broiler burner orifice and the oven burner orifice with a 1/2 inch wrench. I had to tighten them pretty good to get the flame down where it is supposed to be. Then, I checked for leaks and I was then ready to cook.

The LP conversion kit contained very good, detailed instructions. I replaced the gas orifices, took off the bottom door and adjusted the regulator.

Used the screwdriver to adjust the low flame and everything was done.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

All the was needed was a Phillips screw driver. It's not difficult. Watch out because the door is spring loaded and does seperate quickly after all the screws are out. Be sure to watch the front panel, it appears to be heavy glass and can come out of the slots during the repair. I only had to re-assemble and dis-assemble 4 times before I got it right but it's still fairly easy to do if you take your time.

I removed the back panel, removed the 4 screws holding in the clock, unplugged the wiring harness plug. I then had to remove the display screen which was glued onto the main clock piece. To accomplish this without tearing it, I used a hairdryer to soften the adhesive just enough to peal it off. Luckily, enough glue remained that I could then stick it onto the new clock. I then plugged in the wiring harness and reinstalled the clock and rear panel.

i had to remove all the broken glass then removed the metal that was holding the glass. set the new glass in the metal strips and screwed it back togethr. i also had to remove the frame from the door in order to get to the inside glass. then i had to put the door back together.

I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.

The repair was fairly easy. The oven door was attached to a spring arm that had one screw holding each arm to the door. Once off, the outside set of screws were removed and saved in a small dish. Each section had 6-10 screws, to it's best to keep each set separate from each other. Each of the three layers (of the door) came apart easily by removing the screws for each section. The inside (broken glass) lifted out, was replaced, and the sequence was repeated in reverse. During the reassembly I was able to clean the other layers of glass that had gotten build-up on them over the years. Total time start to finish was about 30 minutes. Only tool required was a screw driver! Probably saved 100+ dollars!

1) Turn off the gas and disconnect the power

2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.

3) Remove the grills.

4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.

5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.

6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.

7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.

8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.

9)Reverse the above dissembly procedure.

10) Broil the sausages.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Slid oven out removed one screw one plug replaced part took 5 minutes.told parts repair the error message and they sent me the correct part in two days will use them again saved me from Repair man wanted 85 dollars just to look at it my cost was 28 for probe and 8 dollars for shipping already helped neighbor with their stove they needed new ignighter 12 dollars repair place want 110 to come look at it this site walks you through repair best service!!!!

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!