2783128810 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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- Customer:
- Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Dexter from ASHBURN, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9697
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The oven was not igniting. The heating element was not turning red hot.
First, I pulled out the two lower drawers to access the gas shut off valve. Turned it off by using adjustable wrench and turning counter-clockwise. Then I removed the old igniter - and pulled the two wires and twist caps thru the back hole. it had continuity, but it was 220 ohms. Google research said if the resistance is too high, not enough current will flow to flip the safety valve and/or heat the heating element.
Order the replacement. When I unboxed it, I measured the resistance at 176 ohms. I thought that was a bit high. Installed it anyway, and after turning on the gas at the shut off valve, I turned on the oven. I immediately heard a snap/pop - and found the heating element had broken. I called PartSelect - and they immediately sent me another one - giving me a refund for the first one to cancel out the charge, then charging me anew for the second one.
The second one measured resistance at 68 ohms. That was much better - since resistance in igniters increase with age - 68 is good compared to 220 ohms. Needless to say - re-installed, and it worked like a charm.
Tip - you can remove the oven doors. Each door hinge has a latch. Flip them up. Door lifts straight out. Made the job so much easier.
Order the replacement. When I unboxed it, I measured the resistance at 176 ohms. I thought that was a bit high. Installed it anyway, and after turning on the gas at the shut off valve, I turned on the oven. I immediately heard a snap/pop - and found the heating element had broken. I called PartSelect - and they immediately sent me another one - giving me a refund for the first one to cancel out the charge, then charging me anew for the second one.
The second one measured resistance at 68 ohms. That was much better - since resistance in igniters increase with age - 68 is good compared to 220 ohms. Needless to say - re-installed, and it worked like a charm.
Tip - you can remove the oven doors. Each door hinge has a latch. Flip them up. Door lifts straight out. Made the job so much easier.
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- Lewis from Fairlawn, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9192
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Inside oven door window
Removed the three screws from the top and bottom of the oven door. Removed the outside door cover from the inside door panel. This gave me access to the six screws that hold the two sections of the inside panel together. The glass of the inside oven window was manufactured without the installation of retainers to keep the window from moving. I installed the four retainers that I purchased. Reassembled the door. The glass now stays in place. Since there were no retainers to begin with I had to figure out how they were to be installed to prevent the glass from moving around.
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