79061750100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

used a screwdriver pushed the old ones out put the new in. the video instructions were great.

Inserted new slide as directed by video. Very easy and video was very helpful.

first i took out burners then i took out the screws of the termnal block bracket. i then raised the lid on the stoveand clipped the wires on all 4 of the terminal block kits.i then slipped the shrink wrap on wires and used the wire nuts to connect wires together then heated the shrink wrap. I then put screws back in terminal block brackets. I then put the burners on while looking under lid so i would know they were making good connections as this is a bad design from factory. if you pull out burners to clean them and they are not put back in right you dont have a good connection and that causes the terminal blocks to get hot and melt. thats what happened in my case.
As far as the drawer glides they just snap into place

Pulled broken one out, slid in the new. Most unbeliveable service I have ever received. Tremndous job, you should sell it to others, Many thanks

Frst I slid the drawer out.I then pryed the broken drawer glides off with a flat blade screwdriver. The new drawer glides then just snap into place,then reinstall the drawer and check for smooth operation.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

The old glides were broken off so I didn't know I needed these glides until I saw the parts section of the Manuel. When they arrived I snapped them in with no effort at all.
P.S. The shipping is fantastic here......i ordered on Monday received them on Tuesday. Now that's shipping:>)

The two back door glides were missing and broken (one of each), and needed to be replaced. Finding the parts online was MUCH easier than I expected,and the repair was remarkably simple. Parts snapped into place, the drawer had to be lined up, and it slid right into place. Very easy!

It was so easy my wife did it bu snapping in the new clips.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

This was very simple I just snap the part on no tools required. it took less than 2 seconds.

I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

All the was needed was a Phillips screw driver. It's not difficult. Watch out because the door is spring loaded and does seperate quickly after all the screws are out. Be sure to watch the front panel, it appears to be heavy glass and can come out of the slots during the repair. I only had to re-assemble and dis-assemble 4 times before I got it right but it's still fairly easy to do if you take your time.