Models > 91193812301

91193812301 Kenmore Range

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If your oven is not coming up to temperature, is not heating at all, or has inconsistent temperatures, it may be time to replace your bake element. The bake element is found at the bottom of your oven...
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The terminal block is the socket for the coiled burner elements of your cooktop or range in order for the burners to heat up. If your element is not heating up or turning on, there may be an issue wit...
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If your burner element is not turning on or heating up, it is possible there is an issue with the switch. The surface burner switch, also known as an infinite heat switch, is what turns your burner el...
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If your oven is running hot, not heating evenly, not coming up to temperature, or just not heating up at all, there may be an issue with the temperature sensor. This sensor is usually found in the bac...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
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$57.79
Sold individually.
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This broil element is found on the upper part of the oven cavity.
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This switch controls the small burner on a range/stove top.
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This burner bowl or drip pan is found beneath the heating element on your cooktop or range. This part measures 8 inches in diameter, and should not be confused with the smaller pan, which measures 6 i...
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This gray drip bowl is sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 91193812301

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Brad from Bedford, KY
Parts Used:
WB44T10010
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Bake Element burned out, bunt like a sparkler.
Ordered the part on Friday, got it on Saturday, very impressive. Be sure to unplug the range or disconnect the power at the breaker box before any repairs are started.

The lower (Bake) element is held in by 2 screws. Remove them and gently pull out the element to remove the power wires connected to the element. These wires are very short and there is not much room in which to work. After having removed the wire connectors one slipped from my fingers and went back in the small opening in the back of the oven where the element is inserted. It took some time to fish out the wire. Not wanting to slide out the range I used some surgical forcepts I happen to have grab the wire ( handy to clip wires or compontents in place for some delicate repairs). Its all blind and the opening is very small plus the insulation must be pushed back to gain access. Anyway I managed to grab the wire, attached both wires to the element, replaced the plate and screws holding the element in place, all finished. Worked great. Other ranges I have owned provided a socket to plug in the element, I guess the bottom line gets in the way of quality.. Being 60 years old the worst part of this job is the getting down on my knees to do the work and getting back up again.
345 of 369 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Peter from stamford, CT
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
142 of 204 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Marc from Columbia, NJ
Parts Used:
WB24T10029, WB24T10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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