79093771100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Remove old element by removing two screws on back wall of oven, pull attached wires out about 6" and disconnect. Reverse to install, very easy. Of course the oven door makes it harder to get at things, but it all worked out. Partselect was the only place I could find the element since the stove is 18 years old. I love keeping appliances going as long as possible.

Pulled out the stove, removed the screws that held on the back panel, took out the 2 screws that held in the element and disconnected the wires and put the new one in. I put the screw back in and was finished!

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element

Very important first step: Turn off the circuit breaker for the range or disconnect the power cord.
I removed the oven door to make it easier to access the back of the oven; remove two screws and the door lifts off of the brackets. Removed a screw from the top of the oven that secures one end of a wire that supports the broil element. Removed two screws that secure the broil element plate to the back of the oven. Pulled the element forward exposing the end terminals and wires. The wires are connected to the element by spade connectors. Used long nosed pliers to remove the connectors from the element. Pushed the connectors on to the new element and stuffed the ends of the element and wires back through the opening and the insulation. Reinstalled the two screws holding the element in place and the screw holding the wire in place across the top of the oven. Reinstalled the door. Took less than 30 minutes.

It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!

I removed the back panel, about 6 screws, then found the probe which was attached by 2 screws. Unscrewed them and unplugged it. Plugged the new one in and replaced all the screws. The oven works like a charm now! No more F3 errors!

Removed screws. Unplugged temp sensor. Put screws back in. So easy a caveman could do it.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com!
Jim

I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select