21231 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove before the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.

Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.

This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.

It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.

I studied the drawings on the instruction sheet off and on for about 3 hours. I'm 76 and my memory and ability to identify the relevant parts of the old and replacement clock as depicted on the drawings aren't what they were a few decades ago. I took my time studying this until I was confident that I knew which wires needed to go on which terminals on the new clock module. It took me a while to figure out which side (left or right) of the drawing for the old and new clocks were at the end of the module and which side was adjacent to the rest of the module. Careful study of the drawings and examinations of the modules cleared this up. It also took me some time to figure out if the top or bottom of the drawings as depicted on the paper matched up with the top and bottom of the modules when viewed from the front of the oven. After this became clear removal of the wires from the old module (I labeled all of them with masking tape, for example, as L1, L2, common or neutral, Output 1 and Output 2) and placement on the new module was quite straight forward. I then covered all bare wires with the rubber insulators or electricians tape. However, the clock didn't light up when the panel was reassembled and the power was turned back on. I hired a local appliance technician to examine my work. He found 2 wires touching that weren't supposed to be touching where they plugged into the module. After separating them and turning on the power the clock has worked perfectly. The metal bracket on my oven worked with the new clock module. I didn't have to use any of the new brackets that came with the new clock. A few other manageable problems: I needed a torx screwdriver I didn't have to remove 3 screws holding the panel holding the oven dials and clock module on to the oven. A neighbor provided the needed screwdriver. I cut my index finger when removing the black knob attached to the lever used to lock the oven during cleaning. A band aid stopped the bleeding and allowed work to continue. The spring fitting over the end of the lever that wedges the black handle in place cut my finger. I'll use a pliers or protect my fingers with a towel the next time when removing this knob. I had a few hiccups doing this task but am thoroughly pleased with the end result.

I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.

Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.

Two of the knobs fit perfectly.

The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.

popped the new one on!

Easily, removed old brackets and installed new. Screw driver required. Very quick repair. Excellent quick turn around on the order. Received within 3 days of order.

Removed 2 sheet metal screws. Threw away old part. Replaced with new part secured with the same old sheet metal screws. Works perfectly. Actually it took longer to type this response. I was very pleased with Part Select. If I need another part you'll be hearing from me.

I have had to replace this unit once before. It was very obvious which terminal had burned off. Removed the total front panel. Removed the timer and replaced wires from one unit to the other. Also had to strip off one wire connection and replaced it .

Removed back panel. Removed the defective solenoid on its bracket. Replaced it with the new door latch solenoid. This was relatively easy. Replaced the back panel. Tested self cleaning feature. Everything worked fine. I have preformed this same repair once before.

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.