79095761001 Kenmore Range - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

All the was needed was a Phillips screw driver. It's not difficult. Watch out because the door is spring loaded and does seperate quickly after all the screws are out. Be sure to watch the front panel, it appears to be heavy glass and can come out of the slots during the repair. I only had to re-assemble and dis-assemble 4 times before I got it right but it's still fairly easy to do if you take your time.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

First I removed 2 screws that held the stove top in place. Raised the stove top and support it. Then, I removed the hold down spring for the burner and removed three wires from the old burner. I found that the connector on the white wire was spread open too much so I crimped it closed for a better fit on the terminal. I reattached the three wires, put the hold down spring back in place, lowered the stove top and installed the 2 screws. JOB DONE

Remove old element by removing two screws on back wall of oven, pull attached wires out about 6" and disconnect. Reverse to install, very easy. Of course the oven door makes it harder to get at things, but it all worked out. Partselect was the only place I could find the element since the stove is 18 years old. I love keeping appliances going as long as possible.

Pulled out the stove, removed the screws that held on the back panel, took out the 2 screws that held in the element and disconnected the wires and put the new one in. I put the screw back in and was finished!

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

order pcs fit perfect.

My husband opened the oven door.He removed the metal strip at the top just under where the knobs are.I held the top of the stove up while he unscrewed the 2 screws on either side of where the knob goes and he unplugged the connectors on the switch assembly one at a time a reconnected the new ones. We slid the post through the hole and lined up the two holes put the screws back in. Walah. I cont. holding up stove he got a socket to unscrew the strip holding the back elements in place. He undid just the one side used pliers to squeeze clamp together pushed the little post through the slot....unplugged the connectors keeping track of them. He used a screwdriver to unscrew clamps to screw them onto the new element at the same number as he took them off the old element. We popped the new element back in hooking up all connectors poked the little clamp posts through the holes attached the screw that is the strip holding elements in place. We closed the stovetop We lined the metal strip up at top of oven door underneath the knobs and put the 4 screws back in and closed the door. Done. I would say it took maybe 30 min.if that. Works like a champ.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

i had to remove all the broken glass then removed the metal that was holding the glass. set the new glass in the metal strips and screwed it back togethr. i also had to remove the frame from the door in order to get to the inside glass. then i had to put the door back together.

The repair was fairly easy. The oven door was attached to a spring arm that had one screw holding each arm to the door. Once off, the outside set of screws were removed and saved in a small dish. Each section had 6-10 screws, to it's best to keep each set separate from each other. Each of the three layers (of the door) came apart easily by removing the screws for each section. The inside (broken glass) lifted out, was replaced, and the sequence was repeated in reverse. During the reassembly I was able to clean the other layers of glass that had gotten build-up on them over the years. Total time start to finish was about 30 minutes. Only tool required was a screw driver! Probably saved 100+ dollars!