79099014101 Kenmore Range - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

First my husband cut off the circuit breaker. He then removed the two screws that held the element in place and pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. The rest was easy. We were impressed at how fast the element was sent. We were told about 5 days to 7 days. The element arrived on the second day. Very please with the service and the product.

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

shut off breaker to appliance or unplug

remove oven racks

unscrew lock tabs at back of oven

disconect wires on both sides

discard old element reconnect new element
screw new lock tabs back in.

turn on power test oven.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

order pcs fit perfect.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

The stove is a replacement in a rental. When moving this stove in place, my hand slipped and I hit the control knob for the front burner. It broke the mounting shaft for control itself and therefor the control would just spin when you turned the knob. I ordered a new part that was easy to find and arrived in about 3 days...pretty quick. I shut off power to the stove at the breaker and verified the power was off. Pulled the stove out. Removed the top back panel by removing 6 screws (they were the square nut drive type instead of Phillips or slotted). The controller had a single connector attached that was easily removed. I attached the cable to the new controller, place the shaft through the hole in the front plate, used the old nut and washer (the new controller did not come with a nut and washer...lucky I found the old ones) to tighten in place. I then remounted the back panel and replaced the 6 screws, moved the stove back into place and turned the breaker back on. Total time was about 7 minutes. Oh, I had to reset the time on the stove. That was it.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!