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JGR8875QDS
JGR8875QDS Jenn-Air Range
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Diagrams for JGR8875QDS
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Manuals & Guides for JGR8875QDS
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$11.73
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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If your gas range is not lighting or coming up to temperature, there may be an issue with the igniter. The igniter is used to create a spark that lights the gas, and if it is glowing but will not ligh...
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$46.33
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$92.32
This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. This horizontal mount igniter is designed for use with ranges, it ignites the gas to light the oven burner. This igniter can be used as a ba...
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This door hinge can be used for the left or right side. As per the manufacturer if the hinges have never been replaced on the appliance, they suggest to replace the door hinge receptacle kit.
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$23.85
This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. This white silicone adhesive caulk is commonly used on ranges, microwaves, and cooktops. This adhesive sealant works to form a bond between ...
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Questions and Answers
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JGR8875QDS
Viewing 11 of 11Little to no heat when baking
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How to fix it
Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Element will not heat
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Door won’t close
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Leaking
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Oven is too hot
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- James from Berwick, ME
- Parts Used:
- 74007498
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My ... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My ... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
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- Customer:
- george from birmingham, AL
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing ... Read more the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Replacing ... Read more the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
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- Customer:
- Theresa from Yorkville, IL
- Parts Used:
- 74007498
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this o
... Read more
ne. $40.00 beats $700.00
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