Models > S120-C

S120-C Jenn-Air Range

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Diagrams for S120-C

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This part is an authentic OEM replacement grease filter for your range or cooktop. The grease filter is used to trap particles that result from cooking such as grease, smoke, and dust. The filter is v...
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If your oven door is not opening or closing easily, there may be an issue with the door hinge. The hinge uses spring tension to allow the door to stay open at an angle instead of dropping open. This g...
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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$7.95
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
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This toggle switch is also known as a fan switch. It has three positions: low, off, and high. This switch allows you to select the speed for the fan.
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This electric oven bake element with screw in wire terminals is 19 inches wide. It has a terminal depth of three inches and a total element length of nineteen inches. This element is intended for use ...
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The top of this part is now black.
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This thermostat knob is two inches in diameter. It is a black knob with white numbering indicating the temperature inside the oven as well as the 'off' and 'clean' positions. There is also some chrome...
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Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for S120-C

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Touchpad does not respond
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Customer:
Gene from Washington C.H., OH
Parts Used:
WP71002111
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Replace Grease Filter
Just a couple of minutes to left off the cover grid, left out the old filter and drop in the new one.
524 of 537 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Berkley, MI
Parts Used:
Y702331, WP71003558, WP71002111, 715957K, 12001311
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Blower motor died and I needed to replace it
Most of the repair was obvious as I took the blower apart before ordering the parts. Unfortunately the new motor was significantly larger than the original motor so I had to um. Adjust the position of some of the other parts to fit it in. There was a sheet metal flange that was installed on the other side of the blower from the motor whi ch was designed to focus the air flow into the blower. I used a hammer to ajust the angle of flange so it no longer extended as far into the blower housing.

It works just fine although its a bit louder than the old motor was.
377 of 384 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
James H from Oxford, NY
Parts Used:
W11120791
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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