Models > JGS8750BDB

JGS8750BDB Jenn-Air Range

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Manuals & Guides for JGS8750BDB

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If your gas range is not lighting or coming up to temperature, there may be an issue with the igniter. The igniter is used to create a spark that lights the gas, and if it is glowing but will not ligh...
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This burner electrode, also known as a burner igniter, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the burner knob is depressed and turned, this part is used to create a spark that ligh...
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$14.08
Sold individually. Must be held in with adhesive.
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$13.25
Sold individually.
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This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$90.62
This is an oven rack for your range. It is a stable surface for your cookware to sit when baking and broiling. It measures to be roughly 23 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is made of durable metal ...
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$87.22
This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This is the burner head and electrode for your gas range. If your gas igniter glows but will not light, or if the element will not start or heat entirely, you may need to replace the burner head. This...
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The top of this part is now black.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JGS8750BDB

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Leaking
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Door won’t close
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Gas smell
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Touchpad does not respond
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Customer:
James from Berwick, ME
Parts Used:
74007498
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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Customer:
george from birmingham, AL
Parts Used:
12001655
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
169 of 181 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jeff from Lake Orion, MI
Parts Used:
WP74009336
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Ignitor stopped working on gas cooktop
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and th en rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
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