Models > SCE30600BC

SCE30600BC Jenn-Air Range

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Manuals & Guides for SCE30600BC

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This is a factory-certified oven sensor kit with two harness adapters. Its purpose is to sense the temperature inside the oven. Replacing this part can fix an oven that is not reaching the proper temp...
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This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls the heat level of stovetop burners. When you turn the knob, the switch adjusts the power to the burner for precise temperature co...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This 2800-watt, 240-volt bake element sits at the bottom of the oven and provides the heat needed for baking and roasting. It helps ensure even cooking and can fix problems like no heat or uneven temp...
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This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
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The top of this part is now black.
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$84.02
Need a new oven rack? This sturdy chrome-finished rack is just the right size—about 23.5 by 16 inches—and gives your cookware a solid surface for baking or broiling. Whether your old rack is worn out ...
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This element can be used for the left front or right rear.
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This part goes over top of the light bulb.
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$81.79
Ensure your oven operates at peak efficiency with this replacement door gasket, which forms a secure seal around the oven door to keep heat contained. A proper seal is essential for maintaining accura...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for SCE30600BC

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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Will not program
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Touchpad does not respond
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Door won’t close
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Timer will not advance
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Customer:
David from Westford, MA
Parts Used:
12001656
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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Customer:
Michael from Collierville, TN
Parts Used:
12002125
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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Customer:
James H from Oxford, NY
Parts Used:
W11120791
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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