RS734GP1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

Turn circuit breaker off.Raise up cook top and remove 6 screws that hold catch pan in place.move 3 screws that hold switch cover panel [2 sections]in place. Pull off knob for bad switch and remove 2 screws.Pull off each of the 5 wire terminal clips by removing one at a time and replacing that one on the new switch control to assure correct placement.Reinstall switch cover panel and catch pan.

I first removed oven glass panel from frame by removing three screws which secured it to the frame. I then removed the spacer and handle mounts with a 1/4 inch nut driver. This is the only tool that worked for the application. Using an oen wrench or a rachet without a long extension would have taken much more time. Then reattached new handle using existing screws and resecured oven dorr glass to the frame.

One thing to look at is the old handle bracket vs. new bracket. The old bracket had metal threaded inserts to secure the mounting screws. The new handle is all plastic. This said, the existing screws might not work for the application and may split the plastic mounting bracket if it is over tightened. In my case they worked fine but, it is just something to think about.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Switching out the part was reasonably easy. The hard part twas that over 15 years some of the other parts have dried out. The oven indicator light came loose and the tabs on the clock were broken. With the help of some glue & some Z bracket it is back together minus the oven indicator light. Not perfect but cheaper than buying a new one.

First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the new one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.

pulled out the stove,,unhooked the power cord from outlet. I then pulled the control knob off and removed the the six screws from the back panel. I then removed the two screws the were under the knob and removed switch from panel..I unhooked the wires one at a time and rehooked them to the new switch,,pushed the switch back in the panel and installed the two screws. The knob was different from the shaft on the new switch so I took my dremel and contoured the shaft to fit my switch. I plugged the stove back into the outlet and it worked perfect..

First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.

I removed two small screws located on the underside of the control panel. I then rotated the bottom of the control panel up and dislodged the few connections at top back of control panel. The control panel became loose enough to lay forward exposing the inner control switches. The old problem switch wiring was removed one by one and placed in the same spot on the new switch. The old switch was then removed by pulling off the front control knob and then unscrewing two screws holding the old switch in place. Then the new switch was installed exactly as the old switch was removed.

unplug stove, unscrew two screws on front of rangetop holding element controlls pry off controll handle and unscrew element controll, swing top up and off hinge.one at a time with needle nose plyers pull off wires and connect on new element controll.

2 screws located underneath of the control panel. Unplugged the stove first! Pulled the leads out of the old switch and plugged into the new switch making sure wires went to the same location. SIMPLE! It works as good as new

Remove the knobs on control panel. Removed a few screws. Remove wire fasteners from old part. Re-installed new part, re-fastened wires, re-installed control panel & screws, re-installed knobs. Tested burner on low, medium & high settings to confirm heat adjustment. Done!