Models > 107RC36B

107RC36B Hotpoint Range

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If the drip bowls on your range or cooktop have become damaged, rusty, or are missing, they should be replaced. This is a genuine OEM replacement drip bowl that is chrome in color and 6 inches in diam...
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This 8-inch chrome drip bowl is a genuine OEM replacement part for your electric range. The drip bowl is designed to fit underneath the coiled burner elements, and is used to catch spills that result ...
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This part is the replacement surface burner or element for your range. It is approximately 8 inches in diameter, and 2100 watts. The surface burner connects to the power source and when it is turned o...
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This kit includes an 8", three wire, 2450W surface element. This low rise element has an attached trim ring, and a terminal block with all three-wire units.
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This kit does NOT include the drip bowl. This tilt lock hinge mounted surface element kit includes a 6 inch, three wire, 1350 watt surface element. These standard low rise elements have an attached t...
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This bake element has screw-on terminals.
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This gasket seals the oven/range door.
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$96.93
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 107RC36B

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Element will not heat
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How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
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Customer:
Barbara from Smyrna, GA
Parts Used:
WB30X354
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
50+ Yr Old Cooktop Burner had one of its two coils burn out
The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Granite City, IL
Parts Used:
WB30X356
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Burner had shorted out
It was so easy. I turned off the power to the range, loosened the hinge screw and removed the burner unit from the stovetop. Next I removed the two spring clips holding the ceramic housing covering the three connectors. Then I loosened the three screws holding the 3 wire connectors to the burner, reconnected the 3 wires to the new bur ner unit, positioned the ceramic insulator housing and reinstalled the spring clips and finally replaced and tightened the hinge screw. It took about 5 or six minutes, max.
You can do this!
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
J Douglas from Salisbury, NC
Parts Used:
WB30X354
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Both 8" surface units not working on 30+ yr. old range top
Raise burner high enough to remove screw located on hinge between coils. Remove screw completely and lift-out burner and ceramic block with wire connections.
Remove the wires from the connector block and strip-back the ends of both about 3/4". Make connections per the diagram and then assemble the ceramic blocks around the connect ion in a sandwiched fashion and secure the halves with the clips provided.
Now sit the burner down into place. An extra pair of hands is good here to hold the chrome trim ring and the coil up directly opposite the hinge. Then, peek under the coil and using fingertips, get the screw provided started in the hinge bracket and run this screw up snugly. A 1/4" nut driver makes this part easier, but a screwdriver will get it done.
That's it. Just flip the breaker to restore power and cross your fingers. A fairly easy job that took about 40 minutes to do both 8" elements The potentially frustrating parts are the ceramic terminal block assembly and replacing the hinge screw, but a job that's very doable. Oh, don't forget to slip the drip pans back in.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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