Models > SM9642W580R

SM9642W580R Hardwick Range

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Diagrams for SM9642W580R

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This flat style oven igniter kit is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the igniter glows white hot, the heat opens the gas valve and ignites the fuel heating the burner assembly. ...
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This is a black burner head with the spark electrode. NOTE: This part has been updated and there is no longer a gasket seal required.
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$20.58
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$33.96
Sold Individually. This black knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
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This is a multi-use screw mostly used in dryers. It has a diameter of #10, length of one inch, and thread size of 16. Remember to follow safety practices and instructions provided in the manufacturer ...
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The top of this part is now black.
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This oven door spring is six inches long, and is made of metal.
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This part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original part. : This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
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$23.00
This clock knob is just under an inch long. It is black in color and is made of plastic. There is a chrome disc of decoration on its top.
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$7.68
This is a multi-use frame screw that fits a variety of power tools and equipment. Follow installation instructions and safety practices provided in the manual by the manufacturer.
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Questions and Answers

Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for SM9642W580R

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Gas smell
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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  • Customer:
    James from Ferndale, MI
  • Parts Used:
    12400035
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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  • Customer:
    Charles from Charlestown, RI
  • Parts Used:
    12400035
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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  • Customer:
    Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
  • Parts Used:
    12400035
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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