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JBP35BB4WH
JBP35BB4WH General Electric Range
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Diagrams for JBP35BB4WH
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The bake element sits at the bottom of the oven to provide heat for cooking and baking. You may need to replace the element if you notice your oven is not coming up to temperature, has hot spots, or i...
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$17.92
This burner bowl, also known as a drip bowl, is an authentic OEM part for your electric range or cooktop. This part is black in color and designed to fit under the 8-inch coiled burner elements and is...
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$16.56
This genuine OEM burner bowl, also known as a drip tray, is black and color and measures 6 inches in diameter. It is designed to be used under the coiled elements on an electric stove or range, in ord...
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The terminal block is the socket for the coiled burner elements of your cooktop or range in order for the burners to heat up. If your element is not heating up or turning on, there may be an issue wit...
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If your burner element is not turning on or heating up, it is possible there is an issue with the switch. The surface burner switch, also known as an infinite heat switch, is what turns your burner el...
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$11.02
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This switch controls the small burner on a range/stove top.
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Questions and Answers
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JBP35BB4WH
Viewing 7 of 7Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Dennis from Bondville, VT
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
oven element burned itself up
Turned off circuit breaker to range.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven an ... Read more d pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven an ... Read more d pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
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- Customer:
- Theresa from Sherman, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The baking assembly in the oven burst into flames one day, then broke apart.
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation,
... Read more
they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
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- Customer:
- Marc from Columbia, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029, WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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