J3560R2WH General Electric Range - Instructions

Unhooked electrical wiring from unit and rehooked new unit to electrical wiring.

This repair took between 15 and 30 minutes BUT ONLY because my 10 year old son did the repair. He couldn't wait for his father to come home from work. His only complaint was the tight fit to reach the back of the oven (he wanted to take the oven door off but I said no). He removed the 2 screws that held the element in place and then pulled it from the oven until he could remove the screws that held the wires in place. He was concerned that a little of the insulation came out with the wires, but this was no issue. The new element hooked right up (we figured out that we had to use the 2 new screws for the wires because the old ones did not fit very well). We used the same 'old' screws to attach the element back to the oven. Plugged the oven back in and it works fine. My son was so proud and I didn't have to help any more than shining a flashlight for him.

The heating element in the lower oven of my 18 year-old GE double oven broke into two pieces and would not heat. Because of the age of the oven, a replacement part was unavailable through GE. I came across PartSelect.com through an Internet search and ordered the part online. Total cost was $33.50, counting s/h. FedEx delivered the new element less than 48 hours after I placed the order online.

IMPORTANT: FLIP the BREAKER to stop electricity from going to the oven. Replacing the heating element is a two step process: 1. Remove the old element. 2. Install the new element in its place. (NOTE: This job is much simpler if you lift and remove the oven door BEFORE you begin. NOTE also: There are no slots in the screws, so you must use a small socket wrench--not a screwdriver-- to remove the screws.) STEP 1: Two screws go through the small metal plate attached to the element prongs. These screws hold the element to the back oven wall. Remove the screws, then pull the element forward a few inches to gain access to two screws which hold the element prongs to wires that come through the back oven wall. (One wire and one screw for each of the two prongs.) Remove the two screws. Remove and discard the old element. STEP 2: Install the new element by doing Step 1 in reverse. Oven is now repaired! (It took more time to type these instruction than it took to repair the oven.)

I am not a handy person so I was really nervous about doing this. I first unplugged the oven just to be on the safe side. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Next I pulled the element forward and disconnected the two wires. After that I simply reconnected the two wires to the new element, pushed it back in and put the screws in. Piece of cake!

First I removed the 2 screws that held the bake element in place. Then I pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected the two wires to the new element and pushed it back in place and installed the unit again with the 2 screws. Turned the oven on and it heated up like it should.

Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)!

Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

1) turned off breaker to oven
2) removed oven racks
3) removed screws holding old element
4) pulled out element far enough to remove 2 wires attached to old element
5) noted colors, left white, right black
6) attached new element to wires
7) attached new element to oven
8) put back oven racks
9) turn breaker back on
10) test oven
done

The only reason I mentioned "a bit difficult" is that it is very important to unplug the unit first. I didn't want to say easy because I didn't want someone just jumping right in, (you do end up handling raw wires).
First I removed the two screws that were holding in the element to the back wall of the oven, then pulled out the old element slightly until you see where the wires are attached to the end of the element. I made note (I don't know if this is neccessary) which wire came off which screwset so I could put the new one in the same way. Took out the old element and attached the new one to the two screwsets on the ends of the element and then reinserted that part in in the back wall of the oven and attached plate that holds it in place. It was for my mother and she now thinks I'm a genius! Don't let anyone take a picture of you of you from behind because you definitely have to put your head in the oven. I believe the door is removable that may make it easier to get to it.

This repair took much longer than it should have.
When I noticed the oven would not heat in bake mode, I suspected the element was bad. Going on the forum, I found that I needed to ohm out the element to be sure, so from inside the oven, I removed the two screws holding the element into the stove, pulled out the element a bit and removed the screws from each contact, ohmed it out and found no continuity. I ordered a new bake element which arrived in a couple of days.
I installed the new element by connecting the wires back to each terminal end. It still didn't work and not only that, the broil element didn't work now either.
I inquired again on the forum and found that the suspect might be the control module that controls both bake and broil elements. The part was $250.
Not wanting to spend that on a 10 year old stove, I ordered a new stove at Sears that was on sale.
I sent the bake element back and waited for my stove to arrive.
Sears called a few days later that my stove was ready for pickup so in preparation, I pulled my old stove out from the wall and began to disconnect the pigtail to use on the new one. It was then I noticed a wire dangling that seemed to go to one side of the bake element. When I pulled out the bake element initially and disconnected the wires, I didn't notice that one terminal had TWO wires going to it and one had a single wire connected. It was a bit dark inside the stove when I initially took the screw off of each terminal and I never noticed the second wire on the left one. I installed the old bake element, knowing it may not work but just to see if the broil now worked and it did!
So I ordered another bake element and installed it connecting two wires to the left terminal and one to the right terminal, reattached it to the back of the oven and IT WORKS!!

I cancelled my new stove at Sears which saved me about $500. Just a $26.00 part.

Turned off breaker to stove.Used nut driver to remove the holding plate from the back ove the oven. Their was between 4 to 6 inch of slack on the wire. Used the nut driver and removed the red wire from the right side of the old element, and then removed the white wire from the left side of the element. Replaced the cap head screws that required a nut driver, with the slotted screws that came with the new element, replaced the white wire(left) the red wire(right), end reattached the holding plate to the back of the oven and done!
There are stand offs on the bottom of the element, so you can't get it confused on where the wires go, but take care that the wires do not slip back in the element "hole" or you will have to "fish" them back out.

Brought the element up slowly to 500 degrees, to burn off any residue on the element. Smelled a chemical smell for the first 5-10 seconds of the "burn in", then no smell.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2-3 inches and then removed the two screws that fastened to the ends of the element. Was careful to keep the same wires separate in order to fasten the new element back to the same two wires. When fastening the new element ends back to the wires, care must be taken to not bend the ends of the element when tightening the small screws to the ends. Everything went real good and am most pleased with the very fast service portrayed by Parts Select. They are a class act company and rate very high in customer satisfaction!

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

Easiest repair I ever did. Killed the circuit breaker, then removed the oven door, loosened the 2 hex nuts with a nut driver, pulled the old element out a few inches, loosened the nuts holding the wire to the element. I then put the new element in place, connected the wires to the element, pushed it back in to the insulation, and then replaced the nuts on the cover piece. Put the circuit breaker back on, and done!