JP301BN4BC General Electric Range - Instructions

I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.

TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.

Our glass electric cooktop is more than 15 years old, but it works like a champ. The problem is that the knobs have become almost unreadable. We considered buying a replacement unit for hundreds of dollars, but first I checked PartSelect.com and found the knobs! I ordered them, they came, I removed the old ones and put on the new ones. No tools needed and the cook top looks like new! You saved the day! Thanks!

Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.

Cut Wires to old terminal block and wired in new Terminal Block

Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.

Replaced old drip bowls with the new ones. Very simple, no tools required.

We did the repair by following the inclosed instructions. we are elderly retired average ages 82. This was our first repair and it went very well. We are so pleased to have saved over $80.00 compared with hired labor 3 yre. ago for the same part. Thanks so much for your good service.

The repair was simple but for one missing bit of information. I could not determine how the glass control plate was attached to the cook top. Even GE's tech support wouldn't share any info. I turned out to be, effectively, glued down with a continuous bead of silicone. Once that was determined, I was able to safely and gently pry the glass plate off of the top in order to access a final screw needed to release the control switch.

removed old unit & installed new one

the original path was from the right front control knob around the back of the range and left side of range,which i dismantaled to install the new wires to the right front burner. When I found them to be to short I had to also dismantal the right side so the wires could be routed there. The new wires worked fine but did take some extra time.

I raised the cook top up, and blocked it. I then removed the metal switch cover beneath the bank of switches and I replaced the switch which took about 15-30 minutes. The problem was cured.

I did as the video suggested.....I cut the old wires and spliced new ones already attached to the new terminal block. It would have been nice to have some instructions with the parts as I expected one piece but had to connect the wires to the new block and the new metal cover. I was guessing a bit. Also, I needed to use the holder strip off my old part so that it displaced the new part back far enough to insert the burner connections. That meant finding a screw and nut small enough to allow the metal cover to fit on the block. But the burner works great. I've learned that any repair requires some ingenuity.