JHP67G0V4AD General Electric Range

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

On Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, I placed an order for two replacement burners, four new pans, and two receptacle ASM's for my 30+ year old GE stove. I didn't know the exact model number, but because of your very informative website, I was able to look at the parts and find what I needed.

Much to my amazement, the parts ... Read more arrived the next day (24 hours after ordering!). I didn't pay for overnight or weekend delivery. You quickly fulfilled the order and shipped it the same day. It really was a great surprise to see the parts so quickly.

To top it off, the installation was so simple that my 3 and 5 year olds helped out (after disconnecting the power first!) the installation was so straight forward, that my 5 year old unscrewed the nut that held the receptacle in place while the 3 year old unwrapped the new pans. All I needed was a Phillips head screw driver and a open ended wrench to complete the job. I replaced all the parts and had a stove that looked brand new (and worked) within 10 minutes.

After 5 years of fighting a stove the intermittently worked, worrying about where to get parts, and wondering if I needed to purchase a new stove, it is all over. My wife is happy, I am happy, and my kids are happy that they had a fun Saturday project to help dad with. If I only knew about PartSelect 5 years ago, we would have been cooking worry free, knowing the stove is actually heating up.

The procedure was simple! Here is what I did:
1.) disconnected the power by lifting up the lever under the stove that held the power cable.
2.) Removed the burners by simply pulling them out of the socket, and removed the drip pans.
3.) used a wrench set to remove the screw holding the ceramic terminal block in place
4.) removed the wires from the back of the terminal block with a Phillips head screw driver. On one of the burners, the terminal block assembly was so damaged, I used the pliers to break the ceramic and then held onto the receiving terminal to loosen the screw.
5.) connected the new terminal block. I made sure by simply screwing on the wires. I made sure I clipped in the new plastic covering that protected the screws.
6.) re-attached the terminal assembly block to the stove top. BE CAREFUL so as to not over-tighten, you can strip the screw
7.) installed the new drip pans.
8.) re-connected the power by simply plugging in the main power and re-camping the quick-disconnect.
9.) Checked the stove to make sure everything worked.
10.) Cooked dinner!

In order to determine what was wrong with the oven I used a voltage meter to determine if power was coming to the element in the first place. Be careful to set your meter at least 500 ACV, as the oven is operating at 240V. Remove the two screws that hold the element in place and carefully pull it out of the side of the oven. Turn on t ... Read more he bake element in the upper oven and place your test leads to either side of the connection leads. If you get a reading of 240Volts plus or minus you will know for sure the element is bad.
Turn off the oven, or even better turn off the circuit breaker to your stove.
There are two leads to the element that are held in place by self taping screws. If you have the same luck I have they will be corroded together. Carefully use long nose pliers to hold steady while gently applying pressure. If necessary use liquid wrench. When separated put together in the reverse order as how you took it apart.