JK25302 General Electric Range - Instructions

The hardest part was removing the old nuthead screws off the old bake burner. Once those were off installing the new bake element was simple. One screw in each wire terminal, two hex head screws to hold the unit in place. Works like a charm!

Very easy, remove two screws, pull burner unit out slightly, then remove the two screws attaching the wires, one to each side, remove old unit and replace with new unit and replace screws.

Works fine perfect replacement.

Removed the racks, unscrewed the back plate which holds the element, unscrewed the leads from the element, removed the old part.

Reversed the process to install the new element.

Turned the oven on for a few minutes to burn any contaminates off the new element, replaced the racks.

And that was it; quite easy.

First I opened the shipping box that the new part came in and figured out which tools I would need. Then I went down to the cellar and clicked off the breaker that supplied power to the oven. In this case, it was the only 50 amp breaker in the panel so It was easy to figure out.
Then I hung a drop light inside the oven so I could see clearly and used a quarter inch drive ratchet with a quarter inch sized socket to remove the two self tapping screws that hold the element plate to the back of the oven. Then I used the same sized socket to remove the small screws that hold the wires and terminal ends to the element contacts.
Then I removed the old unit, placed the new one inside and reversed my steps till the new elements leads and bracket were both securely in place and the element supports were resting on the bottom of the oven. I then turned the power back on and set the oven for 350 degrees and switched the 'bake' selector on. Within thirty seconds, I had a nice even heating new element that glowed brightly from one end to the other. Success! Piece of cake. In the future, I plan to get all my appliance parts at PartsSelect.com and do a lot more repairs myself instead of just replacing the entire appliance.

Greg G. - Peabody, Massachusetts

This repair is very simple and only required about 15-20 minutes per unit. After turning off the power to your oven at the main breaker box, it's just a matter of removing two 1/4" screws and pulling out the units. The tricky part is removing the power plugs to the elements and not letting them slip back into the insulation. Once you plug in the new elements and screw them back in you are good to go. Once note, while you have everything out, it is a great opportunity to give your oven a good cleaning.

I shut off the power at the breaker. Then I checked that the power was off by turning on the stove. Light did not come on, power is off. [ By the way, I locked the breaker box, in case somebody helpful came along to turn the power back on !] Then I undid the screws holding the old element . Pulled it out, and undid the screws holding the wire leads to the element. Screwed wire leads to new element. Pushed back in, and screwed brace screws back in. Went out to breaker box and turned power back on. Turned on oven. Worked. Second time I've done this. I kind of forgot how, since the last time was about 6 years ago, but anyone could figure this out, unless they didn't want to. Took 20 minutes. A little hard working in a small space , but beats buying a new stove.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, reconnected the wires to the new element, reattached it to the oven and voila!

It worked. What was really cool, once I ordered the part, I received it in only two work days!

Good job folks!

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

Hardest part was getting the wrong element and having to send it back and reordering correct one....too many variables. Two screws inside the oven removed, pull out range and take off back and attach new element to plug ins!

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

After ordering the proper part with the help of the phone customer service tech, I moved the stove from the wall, unclipped the connector, removed the two screws holding the sensor in place, and removed it. Reversed the above to put it back, and the oven holds perfect temperature.

We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove entire oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.

Turned off power at breaker panel. Removed 2 screws attaching element to stove. Pulled element out a couple of inches and removed 2 wires attached with screws. Installation is reverse order of removal.
Be careful not to twist the terminal ends when tightening screws.

shipping was very fast!

total of 4 screws to remove and replace. Took out the first 2 and pulled element out a few inches. now remove the screws from the element itself but be sure you don't loose the wire out the back of the oven. The only challenge was to keep the wires from falling back through the rear of the oven. This could be easily avoided if you have a clamp of some type ie. clothes pin, hemostst, shop clamp ect.

Removed sensor from back wall of oven by removing 2 screws from flange. I could not pull the wire-nut connections out through the small hole and thought I would have to pull the whole oven out of the wall to acess the connections from the back so instead I clipped the wires close to the old sensor and connected the new sensor with the small wire nuts provided, then enlarged the hole in the oven wall, being careful not to pinch the wires then pushed the wire nuts and extra wire back through the hole and put the screws back in the flange.