JCSP42DR1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I started by Unscrewing the range top. 2 small screws. I took off the old piece by unclipping the piece . Then I color coded each wire so that I would know exactly where I would place the wires for the new part. 30 min maximum time spent changing the part. Please don't forget to unplug the range before you start.

Per the instructions included with part.

Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; finally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.

easily lifted the top of the stove after removing two small screws in front of the stove.removed screws holding burner in place , disconnected some wires and replaced burner. be sure to turn off the power before beginning this project

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Shut off power at breaker panel Took screws out of front of range top lifted it up propped open unplugged wires took off two clips holding burner in place hardest part of job checked wire colors to right places put clips back on pulled out light right next to burner replaced put top down replaced 3 screws turned peer back on hood to go

After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

We made a good choice ordering the part on line it was easy to fix save us a lot of money . Thanks a bunch! I would definitely order again on line if need . Very pleased

Ordered the part, turned off the circuit breaker, test to see that power is off, take a 5/16” nut driver, and remove the 2 screws under the front of the stove top, then lift the top up and hold it up with an old 2x4 about 24” long. All the connections are plug and play, so I took some needle nose pliers, to pull all 5 wires off of the burner. Then all that’s left to do is remove 3 spring clips. That was easily done by inserting a flat screwdriver into the back of each clip and pry them out. It ended up being a very easy fix. There is Utube videos to show you how to do it.

Disconnected breaker. Removed knobs, plastic retaining nuts mounted to each switch shaft. Removed four 1/4 inch hex head screws on front panel and two screws securing defective switch. Removed bad switch, and replaced with new part. Took photo of wiring before removing old part. Referred to photo to ensure correct wiring of new part. Reassembled front panel in reverse order of disassembly. Turned breaker to on, and tested new switch. All worked well.