JCBP40DP2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Tom from North Prairie, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner bowls needed replacement
Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3
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- Customer:
- Stephen from Knoxville, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner Bowl Needed Replaced
Removed burner element and put in bowl
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- Customer:
- Martin from Tewksbury, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The stove's bowl were burned and a mess.
Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!
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- Customer:
- John from Eowell, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced old drip bowls
Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.
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- Customer:
- Marc from Columbia, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029, WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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- Customer:
- jonathan from willow springs, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
terminal block melted
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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- Customer:
- Rick from Avon Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner was constantly at high heat
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.
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- Customer:
- CHARLA from NEW BRAUNFELS, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven sensor was not holding temperature range.
Per the instructions included with part.
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- Customer:
- kevin from crossroads, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
when cooking on the 8" burner it would randomly go high heat.
first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.
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- Customer:
- Ed from Plymouth, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Surface element indicator remained on.
The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.
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- Customer:
- Armand from COVENTRY, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
defective temp. sensor
Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel
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- Customer:
- Jack from Cypress, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Monroe, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB13K10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Range Top Burners would not ignite
Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
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- Customer:
- Doug from HARRISVILLE, NH
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010, 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Simply replaced the drip pans. Came to realize that I had the skill set.
First dressed out with my hard hat, work gloves, dust mask then locked all the doors to prevent intruders from disturbing my concentration. During the installation took video for you tube broadcast and then invited friends and neighbors to witness the accomplishment! Made a sloppy soup to see how the drip pans worked. A+. Received quite a few back pats and atta boys. Most challenging aspect to this endeavor was unwrapping the packaging which was well done thank you. The whole experience left me refreshed and ready to take on the world! Thanks for asking!
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- Customer:
- Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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