JCB710SP2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Per the instructions included with part.

Slide range out. Remove screws holding back vent in place. Remove back vent. Remove screws under front panel and knobs. Lift glass cooktop. Remove screws holding switch in place (behind knob) unplug each wire from switch and immediately replace in same spots on new switch. Replace everything.

easily lifted the top of the stove after removing two small screws in front of the stove.removed screws holding burner in place , disconnected some wires and replaced burner. be sure to turn off the power before beginning this project

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

Scary when stove burner comes on by itself, was turning breaker off for safety! GE website not helpful at all. PartSelect website enabled diagnosis of problem and then provided easy source for replacement switch. PartSelect has schematics: all I had to do is unscrew the back of control panel, unscrew offending infinite switch, hook up replacement switch same way, put panel back and done. GE service call starts at $80 and then who knows what kinda $$$? Did repair myself: cost just $38. Yay!

Ordered the part, turned off the circuit breaker, test to see that power is off, take a 5/16” nut driver, and remove the 2 screws under the front of the stove top, then lift the top up and hold it up with an old 2x4 about 24” long. All the connections are plug and play, so I took some needle nose pliers, to pull all 5 wires off of the burner. Then all that’s left to do is remove 3 spring clips. That was easily done by inserting a flat screwdriver into the back of each clip and pry them out. It ended up being a very easy fix. There is Utube videos to show you how to do it.

After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.