Models > CCGS985SET1SS

CCGS985SET1SS General Electric Range

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Diagrams for CCGS985SET1SS

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If the oven in your gas range is not heating, there may be an issue with your igniter. This part is used to light the oven burner by igniting the gas. If you notice that it is glowing, but there is st...
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This genuine OEM part is a top burner spark electrode, also known as a range surface burner igniter. This part is used to create a spark that lights the flame for the surface burner on your gas range....
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Sold individually.
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This is a replacement burner cap for your gas range or cooktop. The burner cap is found on the burner head, and prevents debris from getting into the head when it is not in use. The cap is black in co...
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This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap is black in color and about 3 inches in diameter. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is th...
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$101.83
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft. Sold individually. NOTE: The manufacturer has updated this knob. It may be smaller than the original but will function the same.
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This is the part that's under the knob. The knob is sold separately.
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Sold individually.
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This probe is used to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure proper temperature is reached. Also known as a Meat Probe.
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Sold individually.
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Must buy bulb locally as per manufacturer.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CCGS985SET1SS

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Gas smell
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Sidney from Marysville, CA
Parts Used:
WB13K21
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite r in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
673 of 720 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
zack from corning, CA
Parts Used:
WB13K21
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
oven would not light or keep temp.
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
448 of 461 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Durwood from Suffield, CT
Parts Used:
WB13K21
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't heat. This degraded over several weeks.
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t rack to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
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