JCGS650DEF2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new igniter in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....

first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,

1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the wires.
I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I was able to get the exact replacemen part.

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then pull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.

1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.

1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

1. Moved oven from the wall.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug from new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.

This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

first i removed the screws that held the element and put the other one on. still would not heat . so i took the back of stove ,sides of stove loose to trace wires and under the top of stove i found a wire that comes from oven switch had been bitten into by a mouse wire nutted and electrical taped the wire back togeather and it workes fine . keep in mind there are 3 thinge that could be wrong. it goes from the switch, to the gas valve in broialer to the igniter switch,gas,fire .

I removed the whole burner (3 screws) and the igniter (2 screws). IGNITER comes from Mfg. boxed with wrong plug on igniter - however they supply two porclean nuts so that the wires can be cut and joined. I recommend that you use the plug off the old igniter and splice it to the new part, so that it will plug into the stove's existing plug