Models > JGRP17BEW2BB

JGRP17BEW2BB General Electric Range

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Diagrams for JGRP17BEW2BB

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This authentic OEM part is an end cap for the door handle on your oven. It is black in color, made of plastic, can be used on either the left or right-hand side of the handle, and is sold individually...
No Longer Available
$15.26
This screw is sold individually.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by May 14
$15.26
This screw is black in color and sold individually.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by May 14
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by May 14
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by May 14
On Order
No Longer Available
The wiring could be different than the original and might need to be installed by an appliance repair person.
No Longer Available
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by May 14
Special Order
Special Order
$76.42
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by May 14

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Common Problems and Symptoms for JGRP17BEW2BB

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Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
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Customer:
Harry from Thomasville, GA
Parts Used:
WB7X7183
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The end caps broke on my oven door handle.
1st I opened the oven door and removed the 2 screws that hold the outside and inside of the door together. With the door separated I removed the 2 screws that hold the end caps in place, then removed the old end caps. I put the new end caps on the oven door handle, aligned the holes for the end cap screws and reinstalled the screws,then reinstalled the oven door screws,closed the oven door and started cooking.
45 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
David from Richardson, TX
Parts Used:
WB26K5061
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Replace failed fan in control box
After turning off the breaker to cut power to the oven, I opened the oven door and, using the PartSelect exploded diagram as a guide, I removed 3 screws from the underside of the control panel - I was then able to slide the panel up and out to remove it. Leaving all of the control wires (especially the ribbon) connected to control panel, I saw the fan assembly mounted to the rear of the control box.

I noted the position of the two attached wires - black on top (or left), white on bottom (or right). Using a nutdriver with an extension bar, I unscrewed 4 screws holding the assembly in place. I removed the old fan and installed the new fan in its place. It was necessary to bend the new fan's legs out a bit to get them to line up with the holes. I reconnected the wires as mentioned above, then reinstalled the control panel.

I tested the oven by turning the breaker back on and letting the oven heat up to 450 degrees. The fan turned on as expected. After the oven cooled off, I reinstalled the 3 screws to secure the control panel.
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Customer:
Walter from Idaho Springs, CO
Parts Used:
WB27T10267
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Fried out oven controller electric circuit board
Removed side retainer pieces, screws above and below accessed by opening oven door and straight down on oven top. Then two back screws to free controller. Let console fall forward. Remove four screws holding oven circuit board, replace with new board, then carefully move one wire at a time from old board to new board. Used magnifying glas s to verify labeling on tiny print on new board. Needed pliers to remove tight pin fittings. Need to focus and not forget labeling switching wires.

Although I thought I was done, it turned out later that the oven wasn't coming on. After taking it apart again, it seemed strange no wire was hooked to the oven prong on the circuit board. I tried switching a few and thank god nothing bad happened. I then studied the directions. There were mentions of wires I didn't have hooking to various places including the oven relay. So I wasn't sure what to do. The broiler has worked so I unhooked the broiler wire and fastened it to bake prong. The oven now worked. I clipped the unnecessary female prong wire from the old ground connected and spliced it into the broiler wire and then hooked it to the oven prong. The oven and broiler prongs are effectively hooked in parallel now. I tested it and the thermostat and shutoff worked properly with both the oven and broiler working.

All done after reassembly.
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